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Routes in Psychobabble Wall

Enemy Within, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eye in the Sky T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eye of the Enemy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychobabble T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychostematic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rebel Yell S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock Capades T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass,1987
Page Views: 1,495 total, 17/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This is the bolted arête to the left of Psychobabble –-- wild, double fall-line position. Getting to the second bolt is a tad spicy for a sport climb; if you fall just before clipping it, you’'ll swing into an ankle (maybe knee) crunching ledge --– though the holds are good incuts. Getting to two of the other bolts is also unusually exciting, but the fall would be all air. Could it be that the "enemy within" is your lack of courage?

Protection

Draws. Chains on top (great lower).

Photos

T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
This thing felt hard for BCC .12a but I think that is because of the exposure and angle of the climb. The second you pull on, it wants to pull you off the left side of the arete the whole way up. Lots of bad holds to confuse you but all the good ones are there. A scary but good one! May 21, 2012