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Routes in Psychobabble Wall

Enemy Within, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eye in the Sky T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eye of the Enemy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychobabble T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychostematic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rebel Yell S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock Capades T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bret Ruckman, Paul Shelton 1986
Page Views: 2,064 total, 12/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 23, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Psychostematic climbs through kind of an ugly looking slot, but the route turns out to be really fun. Belay from the second set of anchors from the left at the base of Psychobabble Wall. Start up a steep crack, then work slightly right up to a huge stance in a pod. From here, pump your way up the corner, finding great jugs on steep terrain straight up to the anchors. Be prepared to do some stemming to get through the crux.

Protection

One piton, and mostly small to medium gear. Weird two-piece anchor at the top. One rope rappel.

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.10a
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.10a
Got the onsight on this one yesterday, and really loved the moves. All but one of my pieces were nuts, and that was my last piece heading towards the anchors. The initial groove crack takes large nuts well and there are some pretty key constrictions that will take nuts past the pin. The crux moves can be handled fairly easily if you take a little advice from the routes' name. I could see this being a fairly scary experience if you try and solely haul up on the chalked up ledges with no technique past the pin. Don't get tunnel vision and it will be a pretty cruiser, good warm up route! May 1, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
I went back today for a friend who wanted to lead Psychobabble. Figured I'd give it an RP attempt, and felt much better. I only placed two nuts (and right next to each other). Small cam placements were OK to very good all the way up. Really cool movement, though it felt much harder to me when I was just breaking in to 5.10a trad. Mar 16, 2014
tenesmus  
 
Hey Sam, go and do all the 5.9 routes on the Bumble Bee Wall, taking the time to use every fingerlock and handjam and sewing it all up geek style. When you come back, this will feel much, much easier and consistent with the 5.9. Have your BCC nut placements dialed and it will let you relax a bunch. I couldn't relax here until I had a few superlocker nuts placed. Then I could just enjoy the moves between the stems. Oct 15, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
I agree with Ben but this route can be sewn up pretty well if you bring some nuts and finds the stems/rests that allow you to place them. I would never head up a trad route in either canyon without a good selection of nuts which often includes some micro brass (they weigh nothing). I think the bolts are a 5.12 variation. Oct 14, 2013
I think everything on the Psychobabble wall feels hard and is a bit scary. Oct 11, 2013
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
I disagree that this route is good for the aspiring 5.10a leader if they're currently strong in 9s. Gear is sketchy up in the dihedral. I took a short fall onto the piton and it held, so there is that. For me, a guy working on 10a's, this felt stout and a little scary because of the pro once up in the seam. 5.10- and PG by my estimation, but I'm no hardman :) Oct 11, 2013
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Broseph L   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Awesome route, great warm up for the other routes on the wall. I climbed it without stoppers and feel like protection would be a lot more solid if I had them. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE BOLT FAR LEFT ON THE ARETE IS DOING THERE? Project maybe? Jul 28, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Lots of goodness is had on this route. That piton is old! The gear is there on this route but the standard BCC crack weirdness make it a bit puzzling to get sastisfying placements. Luckily god-like stems are available at your convenience throughout the entire climb so you feel super cool while you fiddle with cams. Another babble gem. Jul 12, 2011
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Sooooo sweet...every bit of .10a, I find this feels harder than some .11's in the canyon! Either way, once you get a few runs, it eases up a bit...there are tons of great stems and rests along the way... Nov 6, 2007
tenesmus  
 
Nice warmup. If you're a 5.9 trad leader with 5.10 aspirations this is a great route for you. The stems keep it from being pumpy and let you take your time with the many nuts and maybe a tcu or two you'll place. You could use a #3 or 4 camalot in the bottom of the flake where this route goes up and right and Psychobabble splits left.

Please note the many anchors up above and you can TR Rebel Yell easily if you do it right. Aug 12, 2005