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Routes in Psychobabble Wall

Enemy Within, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eye in the Sky T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eye of the Enemy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychobabble T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychostematic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rebel Yell S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock Capades T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Conrad Anker, Doug Heinrich, FFA Merrill Bitter 1987
Page Views: 2,228 total, 15/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Sep 4, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Really great line on the arete and face to the right of Psychostematic. The original route veers right onto the face to a fixed pin and through a small roof. Scope it out so you don't ruin your onsite. You need a .75 or #1 camalot for the last piece of protection and its easy to place. A nice sustained line you'll want to do again and again.

There is a direct start off the Psychobabble belay that has a fun move or two and a direct finish staying on the arete all the way that is quite a bit harder.

Protection

draws, .75 or #1 camalot

Photos

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benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
Rebel Yell Video May 24, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Don't screw yourself by trying to stay on the right side of the arete only. Good holds abound around left. Very airy climb and not many jugs. The crux comes getting to the piton on some pinches and slopers. Finally a good lieback jug appears above the piton. Another good one on the psychobabble wall. Recommend the direct start, but not the direct finish(too hard) Aug 30, 2012