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Routes in Psychobabble Wall

Enemy Within, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eye in the Sky T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eye of the Enemy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychobabble T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychostematic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rebel Yell S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock Capades T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Bret Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 821 total, 9/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Buckle up for this mixed gear and bolt line between Enemy Within and Eye in the Sky. This is actually a linkup of the 5.11b sections of Eye in the Sky (from the belay ledge) and The Enemy Within (to the top), but it is a very worthy line in its own right, particularly for the 5.11 trad leader looking for a challenge.

It'’s a little necky getting to the first bolt, then you'’re faced with somewhat shaky small cams and nuts (but enough of them that one has to hold, doesn'’t it?) to get you to the second bolt, which is in the middle of the first crux section. After this, get what gear you can then try to be calm as you run it out to the second to last bolt on The Enemy Within. One more bolt, and the second crux, gets you to The Enemy Within'’s anchors.

Protection

Wired nuts (including brass) and cams to 1 inch. A full-length sling suitable for looping a block of rock may be useful.

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Zak123
 
Zak123  
 
Great route. really good edges throughout the route. Apr 24, 2015