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Routes in Psychobabble Wall

Enemy Within, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eye in the Sky T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eye of the Enemy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychobabble T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychostematic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rebel Yell S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock Capades T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kevin Gheen and Tom Carruthers, 1984
Page Views: 114 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Climb up to a small ledge above the belay and slide a nut into the right-facing dihedral. Take your time figuring out the sequence, the pro is far from obvious, as are the holds. The crack is often too small for finger tips and the sections wide enough to stuff your tips in are occasionally teeming with Box Elder bugs. Less than intuitive underclings and crimps get you through the crux. Clip the lone bolt on the route and shoot up the dihedral until it peters out to the right. Finish up and right using a sloping crack or climb the crack to the right of the pin on Rebel Yell. Rock Capades eventually joins Rebel Yell and the two routes share anchors. Heady lead!

Location

Rock Capades is the route just East of Rebel Yell. Belay up and to the right of the Psychobabble belay on a grassy ledge. Climb in the right-facing dihedral.

Protection

Bring ample RPs, brass and TCUs for the thin sections at the bottom. There is a bolt protecting the runout section. Gear up to a gold camalot will sew up the rest. Shares anchors with Rebel Yell on the left. One rope rappel.

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Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Get your nuts on. I only placed one cam on this route at the very top. If you suck at nut placements this is a steep learning curve to improve your skills. Place a small micro and hold your breath getting to the bolt, then a massive jug appears and its just fun from there. A must do if you are up doing the babble. Jul 12, 2011
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
I really like this one too...I found it wasn't as steep as some of the other lines on this wall and had to rely on my feet a bit more than on Babble...

I woulnae say this is unusually heady (anymore than the other lines) but it sure takes a few runs or trips to the area just to get use to the flavor here...which is generally steep, technical, and exposed...

bring on the vertigo! Nov 6, 2007