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Routes in Bear Island

Bearly Worth It T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bern, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
How Loose Is Your Goose T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kodiak T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
My Goose Is Loose TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polar Bears in Bondage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shardik T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Shardikawoopoopie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ursa Minor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Todd Swain, March 1987
Page Views: 1,327 total, 10/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Left of "Kodiak", climb a short crack through a bulge into a scoop. Follow fun face to the top.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos

Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Kind of fun but kind of a sandbag as far as the rating. I thought the thin crack down low felt substantially harder than the 5.7 next door, harder even than the 5.9 a couple routes over. Easier if you're taller. May 18, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.7
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.7
Small cams and/or stoppers protect the thin crack low. Gear at your feet during what is probably the crux move before reaching the horizontals. Eases as you move upwards. Lots of gear options for the anchor anywhere from .75 to 2 1/2". Dec 29, 2013
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
If you want to take the "PG" out of leading this route or Ursa Major, you can simply start in the crack on Polar Bears and when that peters out, move into the crack on Ursa Major. The routes are so close you wouldn't even need to extend your gear.

Both worthwhile routes with some thoughtful moves at the grade. The business is all down low. Oct 23, 2011