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Polar Bears in Bondage

5.7, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 50 votes
FA: Todd Swain (solo) March 1987
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Left of Kodiak, climb a short crack through a bulge into a scoop. Follow fun face to the top.

Protection

Pro to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cali, working on the route
[Hide Photo] Cali, working on the route
"Polar Bears in Bondage".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Polar Bears in Bondage". Photo by Blitzo.
anchor
[Hide Photo] anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris D
the couch
[Hide Comment] If you want to take the "PG" out of leading this route or Ursa Major, you can simply start in the crack on Polar Bears and when that peters out, move into the crack on Ursa Major. The routes are so close you wouldn't even need to extend your gear.

Both worthwhile routes with some thoughtful moves at the grade. The business is all down low. Oct 23, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Small cams and/or stoppers protect the thin crack low. Gear at your feet during what is probably the crux move before reaching the horizontals. Eases as you move upwards. Lots of gear options for the anchor anywhere from .75 to 2 1/2". Dec 29, 2013
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] Kind of fun but kind of a sandbag as far as the rating. I thought the thin crack down low felt substantially harder than the 5.7 next door, harder even than the 5.9 a couple routes over. Easier if you're taller. May 18, 2015
Tony Milici
Los Angeles
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Yeah, its definitely a height dependent crux at the start, not 5.7 if you're under about 5'9". Jul 9, 2019