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Routes in Bear Island

Bearly Worth It T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bern, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
How Loose Is Your Goose T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kodiak T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
My Goose Is Loose TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polar Bears in Bondage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shardik T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Shardikawoopoopie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ursa Minor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett & Karen Tracy, June 1995
Page Views: 922 total · 7/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 27, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is on the southwest face and climbs a obvious right leaning crack and face above a roof on brown rock. There is a boulder below the roof. Climb the left side of this boulder or chimney behind it. From above the roof there are a few ways to go. I follow the right leaning crack, some face moves then the upper right-leaning crack to the top. You can also go straight up.


Pro to 2.5"


Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
This is a really fun and unusual climb. I like the move up and over the "crevasse" in order to reach the roof. There is a little bit of runout when the right leaning crack ends and a smeary face section is encountered. This face section is steeper than it looks from the ground. A new leader might have trouble here. I put a hybrid alien in a shallow crack in that section, but in all honesty I doubt it would have held. So it was pretty spicy, yet a lot of fun. Mar 6, 2011

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