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Routes in Bear Island

Bearly Worth It T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bern, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
How Loose Is Your Goose T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kodiak T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
My Goose Is Loose TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polar Bears in Bondage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shardik T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Shardikawoopoopie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ursa Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ursa Minor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Todd Swain, March 1987
Page Views: 2,506 total · 18/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb the crack on the left side of the Northwest Face. This entire climb can be done on face holds, using the crack for pro.


Pro to 3".


Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
This a very good route for a beginner leader. It's fun and easy to protect. At the top we traversed right and clipped the single bolt that is located just left of a TR anchor. Mar 6, 2011
Justin D.A.  
Very good beginner climb! Easy downclimb or rappel anchors. Downclimb the opposite side of formation. Jan 31, 2012
Mae Rae
Mae Rae  
Very easy - barely 5th class terrain - but there are couple of spots that make it fun. Would be a good first trad lead, but make sure you have a few big cams (2-3 inches). Hexes or tricams of the same size may work also.

Requires a gear anchor or at the top if you want to setup a TR (also big cams and/or smaller stuff with the use of long slings.) Not a great TR because the rope tends to get stuck in the crack or on flakes. There some bolts to the right (above Shardikawoopoopie) that can be used to TR most of the climbs on the left side of the face. Mar 11, 2012
Ben Crowell  
My second trad lead. Very easy, which was fine by me. Debatable whether this is even class 5. Easy, solid placements for both cams and a couple of passive pieces. Miramontes's 5.3 is wildly out of whack IMO compared to the kind of old-school JT ratings you see in Vogel. For example, Vogel gives a 5.1 to B-1 at Trashcan Rocks, which is a much, much harder trad lead than this. Feb 18, 2013
uhhhh, Vogel's 1992 guide and Joshua Tree West(Vogel) both rates this one 5.3 Feb 19, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
As others have noted this is a great lead for those looking to break into the grade! :) In all seriousness it has good stances, clean rock and plentiful placements. Bring plenty of large gear which is what is straightforward although smaller gear placements available. 2 1/2" cams for anchor which are almost deemed unnecessary with the lone bolt up top and two bolts to the neighboring route providing lots of clip & go options.

Dec 29, 2013
Perfect beginner route. My first real trad lead, very straightforward, good line and it eats gear. As of now its THE route I will point people to for a great first lead. Although I disagree with the height in the description. Its in the range of 50-60 feet, not 30. Jan 13, 2014
Very very easy. Was my girl friends first lead. Big jugs, huge ledges and plenty of crack for placing gear. Perfect first climb for a nervous trad leader. Feb 6, 2014
Excellent beginner/first trad lead. Great holds, perfect feet/stances, great pro placements. Also a good climb for practicing passive pro placement. Mar 3, 2014
Kevin Ranck
Kevin Ranck  
Very enjoyable movement up fine rock. Rap station was in good shape. May 2, 2016
Ryan Weald  
Just climbed it this past weekend and found a bolted anchor on top that was added for a sport climb but can be used in place of a gear anchor for this route as well. Sep 20, 2017

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