Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: George Zelenz, January 1994
Page Views: 1,065 total · 8/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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This route starts off the boulder/ledge to the right of "My Goose Is Loose".
The Randy Vogel JTW guide shows this route, in the photo, following the dangerously loose, rubble filled, left facing corner. That's not the route Just left of this trashy corner is a shallow corner/groove with faceholds. Follow this to the top.


Some stoppers and small cams (1" max) can protect this easy climb.


Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
May be blocked by a huge spiderweb half way up. Oct 11, 2010
Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
I started down and right of the actual climb and went up a separate hand to finger crack and then transitioned left into the route. It was kind of fun and added another 8 feet to the climb. There are a lot of rocks just sitting there in limbo waiting to come down on the belayer, so beware. Despite the choss it was actually fun. BTW, there was no spider web there yesterday. Mar 6, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Avoid the left facing super blocky, rubble filled corner and take the more obvious right facing hand size crack. Gear anchor with several options but larger 2-3" pieces and a long runner is golden. Dec 29, 2013
Short, but still has fun moves. Made the anchor in the crack above before noticing a couple of bolts above Kodiak. Feb 6, 2014
Anne Sandman
Anne Sandman  
Pretty solid beginner lead: lots of good stances for placing gear, and depending on the specific path you take, it encourages you to consider rope drag and pendulums for your follower. I agree with Susan's recommendation to take the hand/finger crack instead of the corner. Nov 19, 2018