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Routes in Wizard Wall

Asleep at the Wheel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boschanova T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 176 total · 1/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 13, 2006

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details


This climb and the moves are a lot better than they look and the rock quality is actually very good.


Climb the somewhat grungy looking wall with bolts hidden in the trees across the canyon from Aerial Anticipation.


5 Bolts with good anchors. Easy to Top Rope.


Bad Bob  
I think I remember doing this route in spring/summer of 1993 as the name sounds very familiar. If memory serves, it is almost directly across the river from the descent into the canyon and consists of 4-6 bolts...not my intent to provide beta, but to try and remember experiences there. I think it was installed around that time by climbers from Austin, of course the names escape me, but they were pretty excited about it and I may have had the second ascent. On the last clip before the anchors for the on-site, I blew the clip trying to reach through and fell upside down for maybe 20'. Left quite a rope burn/snake around my let as the rope wrapped around my leg.
I had been climbing for a couple of years at that point, but with little sport experience...looking back, I was probably lucky I didn't wack my head!
As far as the grade goes, I have a hard time believing this is .12a...I remember discussing with the FA party that it was .10+/11-.
Look forward to more comments on this; maybe someday I'll get back down there.
Bob Oct 21, 2009
Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
  5.11a/b PG13
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
  5.11a/b PG13
Yeah, i dont feel this is 12a either. It is sustained 11 climbing for sure..but not 12a Jan 20, 2010
steven charles
steven charles  
5 bolts on this one.

anyone know about the crack to the right of it, it goes on gear at about 10a or so, i felt like it was a bit spicy. Mar 7, 2011
Daniel S
Oklahoma City
Daniel S   Oklahoma City
After climbing Arial Anticipation, League of Doom/Space, and Asleep at the wheel in the same day, I would rate the climb a 12a as it is a bit harder to link up into a flawless red point as the other aforementioned climbs rated 11c. Additionally, I felt the moves and crimps to be equal to those found on Rap Bolter but non as difficult as the crux on whipping post. As such, I feel 12a is an appropriate ratting for the climb. Sep 8, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
I like to point out... Dr. Coolhead was rated 10a by the Lohn guidebook. Today its easily a 10c/d, I think Tony put it at 10d. I just see rating fluctuate so much, I try to not get wrapped up in all of it, plus some routes simply have secret beta that can unlock the easier moves. All told, great feedback. I enjoy seeing what others think and exactly why. Sep 9, 2015

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