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Routes in Wizard Wall

Asleep at the Wheel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boschanova T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wizard, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
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Type: Trad
FA: Cosby, John Frank, Duane Raleigh 1982
Page Views: 315 total · 2/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 13, 2006
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Follows the thin crack on the left side.

Location

Just left of Boschanova

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Chase Webb
Little Rock, AR
5.11c/d R
Chase Webb   Little Rock, AR
5.11c/d R
This route has always had a certain allure to me. I finally made it over to give it a try on TR and I must say, I was a little disappointed. Just getting on and off the route are enough to deter most. A fallen tree at the base is where you would want to start the 5.5ish approach ramp. There are a couple of protection options available in this section if you wanted them, but the climbing is easy and straightforward. There is a small tree at the base of the climb, from the tree to the anchors, it is probably 30-35ft. I found the crux to be the strenuous layback moves to get established on the wall just before the flared crack begins. Climb the crack with sustained movement until it peters out and leads you to an interesting transition move to the wider crack to the left , just below the bolted anchors. The gear down low is now very obvious, I will definitely rehearse on TR again before giving a redpoint burn. Mar 19, 2018

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