Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
[Hide Photo] See topo on Wizard Wall page and use this to landmark: you can hike up and around by peeling off the trail before it turns right and sends you over the top of Marlboro Man Wall. Rapping to chains i…
[Hide Comment] This route has always had a certain allure to me. I finally made it over to give it a try on TR and I must say, I was a little disappointed. Just getting on and off the route are enough to deter most. A fallen tree at the base is where you would want to start the 5.5ish approach ramp. There are a couple of protection options available in this section if you wanted them, but the climbing is easy and straightforward. There is a small tree at the base of the climb, from the tree to the anchors, it is probably 30-35ft. I found the crux to be the strenuous layback moves to get established on the wall just before the flared crack begins. Climb the crack with sustained movement until it peters out and leads you to an interesting transition move to the wider crack to the left , just below the bolted anchors. The gear down low is now very obvious, I will definitely rehearse on TR again before giving a redpoint burn.
Mar 19, 2018
[Hide Comment] As you climb up to the deck before gaining the face, find a good under cling; from here you can lean back and reach a placement for a small cam (0.2-0.3?) overhead. From here the climbing is desperate, you may be able to place a blind 0.4 however I imagine running it out to the first good hand jam/stance may be the safer option. There is also a spot for a #2 wild country nut.
This line should be approached with caution, the climbing is tenuous and the gear after the first piece is difficult to get in without making an unplanned exit from the wall.
Left anchor bolt needs to be tightened.
Oct 13, 2019
[Hide Comment] The only cam worth a shit down low to protect the opening move is a yellow c3 or a 0.4 with the inner lobes facing left. You can place this from the undercling stance at the beginning of the route. The most delicate part of the climb is unprotected until you get a sinker jam and can place a .75. The rest of the route protects well.
Jan 15, 2020
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Fayetteville, AR
Edmonton, AB
This line should be approached with caution, the climbing is tenuous and the gear after the first piece is difficult to get in without making an unplanned exit from the wall.
Left anchor bolt needs to be tightened. Oct 13, 2019
Boulder, CO