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Routes in Wizard Wall
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3381 Broken Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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3382 Left Amp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Asleep at the Wheel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boschanova T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Brother Gunk (Heaven Can Wait) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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ROMAN FIRE T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Wizard, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 34.69821, -98.66906 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 851 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Craig Childre on Oct 13, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
Three bolts protect this short face which can be climbed along the dihedral (right of the bolts, easier), or up past the first bolt to the left, sticking along the arete (much harder, opposing foot tensioned side pulls to prevent barn-dooring). A small, questionable cam (0.1) can prevent you from sliding off the deck if you blow the first bolt.
Be prepared for a bit of debauchery to build an anchor in the crack behind/beside a sharp and thorny bush (cams at 2 and 3).
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