[Hide Comment] I think I remember doing this route in spring/summer of 1993 as the name sounds very familiar. If memory serves, it is almost directly across the river from the descent into the canyon and consists of 4-6 bolts...not my intent to provide beta, but to try and remember experiences there. I think it was installed around that time by climbers from Austin, of course the names escape me, but they were pretty excited about it and I may have had the second ascent. On the last clip before the anchors for the on-site, I blew the clip trying to reach through and fell upside down for maybe 20'. Left quite a rope burn/snake around my let as the rope wrapped around my leg.
I had been climbing for a couple of years at that point, but with little sport experience...looking back, I was probably lucky I didn't wack my head!
As far as the grade goes, I have a hard time believing this is .12a...I remember discussing with the FA party that it was .10+/11-.
Look forward to more comments on this; maybe someday I'll get back down there.
Bob Oct 21, 2009

[Hide Comment] Yeah, i dont feel this is 12a either. It is sustained 11 climbing for sure..but not 12a Jan 20, 2010

[Hide Comment] 5 bolts on this one.

anyone know about the crack to the right of it, it goes on gear at about 10a or so, i felt like it was a bit spicy. Mar 7, 2011

[Hide Comment] After climbing Arial Anticipation, League of Doom/Space, and Asleep at the wheel in the same day, I would rate the climb a 12a as it is a bit harder to link up into a flawless red point as the other aforementioned climbs rated 11c. Additionally, I felt the moves and crimps to be equal to those found on Rap Bolter but non as difficult as the crux on whipping post. As such, I feel 12a is an appropriate ratting for the climb. Sep 8, 2015

[Hide Comment] I like to point out... Dr. Coolhead was rated 10a by the Lohn guidebook. Today its easily a 10c/d, I think Tony put it at 10d. I just see rating fluctuate so much, I try to not get wrapped up in all of it, plus some routes simply have secret beta that can unlock the easier moves. All told, great feedback. I enjoy seeing what others think and exactly why. Sep 9, 2015

[Hide Comment] In it's usually dirty state and considering how hard it is to read, I feel that this route has an onsite grade of 12a. However, once you work out the beta I think it feels easier than other 12's in the refuge. The climbing is fluid, intricate and memorable. 5 star climbing on 2 star rock, although the holds you need are solid enough. This route is an overlooked gem! Oct 20, 2019

[Hide Comment] From my short meeting with this camouflaged route, I'd put it at at least 12b, compared to other routes here and mostly elsewhere, I felt I was trying extremely hard for just about every other move, maybe more. Of course, maybe it eases with practice, beta, and getting use to this rock.

Also, anyone know the intention at the top? My friend found a way to go right at the second last bolt, or left at the last bolt, but couldn't find a way totally straight up. The left exit seemed to add a bit more of the same, but it looks as if the bolts/route's intention was to have you go straight up over the bolts the whole way. Any ideas as to the FA's intentions? Nov 19, 2019

[Hide Comment] Hardware all replaced as of 2020 Jan 3, 2020

[Hide Comment] Trying to say this route is 10+/11- is wildly off base and if you do think that well then you probably aid climb as well and have a big ol brown nose for crusty old climbers trying to flex how hard they are on each other all the time even tho you can’t pull jack squat now. Mar 28, 2023