Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pywiak Dome

Aqua Knobby T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dike Route, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Electric Africa T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
European Vacation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Foote Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
House Calls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Medusa S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Needle & Spoon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Zee Tree T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Dennis Oakeshott,Bruce Morris, Peter Mayfield,1975.
Page Views: 3,445 total, 25/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 28, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Starts from third class ledges, up and left from the "Dike Route".
Climb past 5 bolts to a two bolt belay.
Follow 7 bolts passing a 5.10a bulge to a two bolt anchor.
Run out 5.6 (no pro) to another two bolt anchor.
Move up and right to the base of a steep corner.
Descend 3rd and 4th class to the right.

Location

For more complete information, get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.

Protection

Draws.

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
Yea, its a sport route...go for it, Sporto! Mar 9, 2017
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
For the record:

We actually named the route, "Needle & Spoon", based on these lyrics of a song by Savoy Brown:

"I sleep with the sun,
And I rise with the moon,
But I feel alright with my needle and spoon"

It's been getting misnamed in the guidebooks ever since, but this is the true story behind the name. Honest Injun! Sep 19, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Thanks, changed the bolt count on pitch 2 of the description to 7. Jul 29, 2014
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
Think there were always 7 bolts on the first hard pitch. Jul 27, 2014
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Has this route received some retro-bolts? I pretty sure I clipped more than 5 bolts on the 5.9+ pitch. Sep 9, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10a
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10a
Good route with two quality pitches. We soloed the first pitch, which had a move or two of 5.6, a crack, to a bolted anchor.

I thought p2 might be harder because it was more continuous. p3 is the technical one move crux. The entire climb is well bolted except for two 30 foot runouts after the crux on much easier ground (5.7 and below.) We rapped from the top of 3, didn't do the lower angle stuff above.

Fun route, well protected, give it a go! Sep 12, 2008
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10- PG13
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10- PG13
I remember it being very well bolted for a Tuolumne face route. Excellent climbing and will challenge any concept you have of friction.


Also....so not a sport route!! Take that blemish of a label off this fantastic route! Apr 7, 2008