Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Dennis Oakeshott,Bruce Morris, Peter Mayfield,1975.
Page Views: 3,956 total · 26/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 28, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


Starts from third class ledges, up and left from the "Dike Route".
Climb past 5 bolts to a two bolt belay.
Follow 7 bolts passing a 5.10a bulge to a two bolt anchor.
Run out 5.6 (no pro) to another two bolt anchor.
Move up and right to the base of a steep corner.
Descend 3rd and 4th class to the right.


For more complete information, get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.




Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10- PG13
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10- PG13
I remember it being very well bolted for a Tuolumne face route. Excellent climbing and will challenge any concept you have of friction.

Also....so not a sport route!! Take that blemish of a label off this fantastic route! Apr 7, 2008
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Good route with two quality pitches. We soloed the first pitch, which had a move or two of 5.6, a crack, to a bolted anchor.

I thought p2 might be harder because it was more continuous. p3 is the technical one move crux. The entire climb is well bolted except for two 30 foot runouts after the crux on much easier ground (5.7 and below.) We rapped from the top of 3, didn't do the lower angle stuff above.

Fun route, well protected, give it a go! Sep 12, 2008
Bryan G
Bryan G   Yosemite
Has this route received some retro-bolts? I pretty sure I clipped more than 5 bolts on the 5.9+ pitch. Sep 9, 2012
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
Think there were always 7 bolts on the first hard pitch. Jul 27, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Thanks, changed the bolt count on pitch 2 of the description to 7. Jul 29, 2014
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
For the record:

We actually named the route, "Needle & Spoon", based on these lyrics of a song by Savoy Brown:

"I sleep with the sun,
And I rise with the moon,
But I feel alright with my needle and spoon"

It's been getting misnamed in the guidebooks ever since, but this is the true story behind the name. Honest Injun! Sep 19, 2014
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Yea, its a sport route...go for it, Sporto! Mar 9, 2017
San Francisco, CA
Sergey   San Francisco, CA
FYI 1st pitch in the topo (easy crack/groove) would take gear easily and doesn't have bolts. Above the bulge on p3 (just below the fork in the topo) there's a spot with two bolts side-by-side, but one of them has no hanger; 60m ropes reach to the top anchor (the one above p3 in the topo) from p2 anchor. Jul 14, 2018