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Routes in Pywiak Dome

Aqua Knobby T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dike Route, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Electric Africa T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
European Vacation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Foote Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
House Calls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Medusa S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Needle & Spoon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Zee Tree T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 5 pitches
FA: Gerughty, Evje, & Meeks - 1966
Page Views: 6,553 total, 48/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The Dike Route follows an obvious system of (generally left-leaning) dikes up the right-hand end of Pywiak Dome. It is a great climb, but not for the faint-of-heart. Be very confident running it out on slabs -- the crux fourth pitch has the potential for 60-80' falls on 5.8 terrain in two different places, and a 30' fall on 5.9 ground. The other pitches are easier, but still very sparsely protected.

P1: Climb a long gradually steepening slab to a bolted anchor at a stance on the dike. This stance is roughly where two dikes intersect to form a cross. 5.4.

P2: Continue up the dike past a bolt and step left to another dike. Follow this up to a bolted anchor on a big ledge. 5.6.

P3: Follow the dike up past three bolts to another bolted anchor. 5.7.

P4: Continue upwards past a pair of bolts (old anchor) and then run it out on 5.8 terrain up to a steep bulge. Pull this bulge on good holds and continue relatively straight up to a thank-god bolt. This bolt is hard to spot -- it's pretty much straight up, perhaps slightly to the right of the last belay, but don't stray too far in that direction. After clipping this bolt there is a stretch of 5.9 (crux) climbing through some gold polish before finally reaching a bolted anchor.

P5: An easy pitch up to a bolted belay below the final headwall. This can be breached via a wide crack, but most parties rap from here with double ropes (follow the Needle Spoon route on the descent).

Protection

Five or six draws.
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.9 X
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.9 X
added some tat to the anchor atop P5 as only one bolt had a QL for rap Oct 29, 2017
Oliver Abbitt
Santa Paula, California
Oliver Abbitt   Santa Paula, California
Great route on superb granite. As good as a mini crest jewel.
BOLT BETA: I too missed the thank god bolt on pitch 4 but saw it once I was at the anchor. To reiterate- it is about 10 feet to the right once you pull the 5.8 bulge. Look for a natural trough in the wall that's good to stand in with a black xenolith in the middle. The bolt is at your face once you are on the black spot. There's no reason to miss it, and with that bolt the 5.9 climbing is scary but not shit your pants scary! Sep 15, 2015
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
As Ed H on Supertopo advises: think where would you stop to put in a bolt on the FA? The final bolt is up and right of the bulge, in a divot/depression area. Easy to find when you know where to look.
If not topping out, you can rap with a 70m. Jul 26, 2015
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I did this with my brother many years ago. We were supposed to swap leads, but every time it was his turn he looked up and said "You Lead." The crux pitch had me blabbering like I was gonna die. I did make it and was pretty stoked! I remember sometime later doing some routes at the Bunny Slopes and watching a progression of 5 or 6 parties attempt this route and to the last they all bailed off before doing the crux pitch. That made me feel pretty good!! Jun 5, 2014
Will Stat
  5.9 X
Will Stat  
  5.9 X
This is one of my proudest leads in Tuolumne. Pitch 4 didn't seem to have a distinct crux, it was a bunch of 8+/9 climbing on insecure slab features with huge runouts. Personally I think this route deserves an R/X rating, and P4 should be treated like an X rated climb. Sure, the rope will eventually catch the leader, but you can get really messed up in an 80'-100' slab tumble. Good luck riding that down safely, especially if you miss the second bolt. Keep cool, don't fall, and enjoy one of Tuolumne's best 5.9 slabs. What a line! Jun 25, 2013
the professor
  5.9 R
the professor  
  5.9 R
I too, never saw the mythical bolt on P4. The runout was at least 50 feet of mostly 5.9. Scary! Jun 7, 2013
Dave Alden
Seattle, WA
  5.9 R
Dave Alden   Seattle, WA
  5.9 R
Nice line, right up the obvious dike on the dome. Bolts are spaced a bit far apart on the faces. Last pitch is the best. Feb 28, 2011
Eric Foltz
California
  5.9 R
Eric Foltz   California
  5.9 R
Lead this a few years back. Never did see the last bolt on P4 and ended up running it out to the anchors. Still one of the best routes you'll find this close to a road. May 21, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9 R
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9 R
Even more R when you can't clip the bolt on the very polished upper part of P4 (really difficult to see because all the crystals glint in the sun, just like bolts) and your belayer gets the rope jammed. E1 5a in UK terms. May 8, 2009
Ol Toby
CA
  5.9 R
Ol Toby   CA
  5.9 R
Beautiful line. A delicate dance up beautiful granite. Sep 12, 2008