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Routes in Pywiak Dome

Aqua Knobby T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dike Route, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Electric Africa T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
European Vacation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Foote Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
House Calls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Medusa S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Needle & Spoon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Zee Tree T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 375 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Lloyd Price and Joe Fitchens, July 1972
Page Views: 5,606 total · 42/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

First pitch is a nice warm up. The 2nd pitch is why this route is great. It starts steep and technical and stays that way for about 70 feet. There's a bolt about 2/3s up that is your pro for some thin slab moves. They called this R before, but with small cams and nuts, you can pro it just fine. Might be PG-13 to some, but for the area it's not. 3 pitch is a nice crack out.

Location

North side of the dome. Look for the slab up to a ledge below a black water streak.

Protection

#2 C4 down to #0 C3.
Tricamus
Culver City, CA
 
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
 
Turns out you can link 1-3 w/ a 70m. This makes for a fun LONG pitch, as I was laying on my belly to build the anchor in the horizontal crack in the back of the ledge. I would agree with others that most will likely find this to be PG, as some falls would not be that clean. Jul 21, 2016
Patrick M.
Vancouver
  5.9 R
Patrick M.   Vancouver
  5.9 R
Stellar 2nd pitch and easy to link 2-3 with a 60m rope. Keep debating whether it's runout or not but this route is definitely R by any normal people standard (which most people commenting on MP thread are obviously not. It's great to be you). Sep 14, 2015
stuart.h
Redwood City
  5.9
stuart.h   Redwood City
  5.9
This route has a little bit of everything TM has to offer.

FA: Lloyd Price & Joe Fitchens 7/72 Apr 9, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9 PG13
I do this route every time I pass through Toulome. Absolutely wonderful, requires good head but is all there if you use your feet. Still PG 13 I think. Jul 7, 2011
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
We started with the bolted 5.9 slab start, then linked pitches 2 and 3. Done this way, this is a new favorite TM multi-pitch for me; steep, fun, some good cracks, and just run-out enough to be exciting without being upsetting.

Standing at the bolt that protects the runout, the climbing feels hard and tenuous. But the bolt is protecting the hardest stuff; once you step up and over the overlap it's pretty cruiser to the crack and good gear. Aug 15, 2010
Tommy L-D  
 
Pitches 2&3 link w/ a 60m, and make for an amazing time.

I wouldn't do it any other way. Aug 9, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
The second pitch is simply superb. However, I do not see how you could pro up anywhere on the face after leaving the bolt and before making the crack at the end.

We chose the 5.9 bolted-to-5.6 R start: the best option to start p1 I think!

I'd say the scare factor is somewhere between PG13 and R on just a section or two. Jul 6, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.9
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.9
4 pitches of technical climbing.

The 5.8 runout on pitch 2 feels runout not because of the distance between pro, but because a fall will propel you over an overhang and onto the slab below--which will surely hurt. The consequence of a fall is not merely a long slide. Jul 23, 2007