Type: Trad, 375 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Lloyd Price and Joe Fitchens, July 1972
Page Views: 6,256 total · 42/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

First pitch is a nice warm up. The 2nd pitch is why this route is great. It starts steep and technical and stays that way for about 70 feet. There's a bolt about 2/3s up that is your pro for some thin slab moves. They called this R before, but with small cams and nuts, you can pro it just fine. Might be PG-13 to some, but for the area it's not. 3 pitch is a nice crack out.

Location

North side of the dome. Look for the slab up to a ledge below a black water streak.

Protection

#2 C4 down to #0 C3.
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.9
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.9
4 pitches of technical climbing.

The 5.8 runout on pitch 2 feels runout not because of the distance between pro, but because a fall will propel you over an overhang and onto the slab below--which will surely hurt. The consequence of a fall is not merely a long slide. Jul 23, 2007
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
The second pitch is simply superb. However, I do not see how you could pro up anywhere on the face after leaving the bolt and before making the crack at the end.

We chose the 5.9 bolted-to-5.6 R start: the best option to start p1 I think!

I'd say the scare factor is somewhere between PG13 and R on just a section or two. Jul 6, 2009
Tommy L-D  
 
Pitches 2&3 link w/ a 60m, and make for an amazing time.

I wouldn't do it any other way. Aug 9, 2010
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
We started with the bolted 5.9 slab start, then linked pitches 2 and 3. Done this way, this is a new favorite TM multi-pitch for me; steep, fun, some good cracks, and just run-out enough to be exciting without being upsetting.

Standing at the bolt that protects the runout, the climbing feels hard and tenuous. But the bolt is protecting the hardest stuff; once you step up and over the overlap it's pretty cruiser to the crack and good gear. Aug 15, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9 PG13
I do this route every time I pass through Toulome. Absolutely wonderful, requires good head but is all there if you use your feet. Still PG 13 I think. Jul 7, 2011
stuart.h
Redwood City
  5.9
stuart.h   Redwood City
  5.9
This route has a little bit of everything TM has to offer.

FA: Lloyd Price & Joe Fitchens 7/72 Apr 9, 2013
Patrick M.
Vancouver
  5.9 R
Patrick M.   Vancouver
  5.9 R
Stellar 2nd pitch and easy to link 2-3 with a 60m rope. Keep debating whether it's runout or not but this route is definitely R by any normal people standard (which most people commenting on MP thread are obviously not. It's great to be you). Sep 14, 2015
Tricamus
Red Rock, NV
 
Tricamus   Red Rock, NV
 
Turns out you can link 1-3 w/ a 70m. This makes for a fun LONG pitch, as I was laying on my belly to build the anchor in the horizontal crack in the back of the ledge. I would agree with others that most will likely find this to be PG, as some falls would not be that clean. Jul 21, 2016
Hobo Greg
My Van
  5.9 PG13
Hobo Greg   My Van
  5.9 PG13
Led 1/2 linked, awesome awesome climbing, went the bolted 5.9 start, thin, and then the mantle over the lip was the hardest 5.6 move I've ever done. The 5.9 part was stellar, just amazing climbing. Crack finish on pitches 3/4 was great too. Jun 27, 2018