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Routes in Pywiak Dome

Aqua Knobby T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dike Route, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Electric Africa T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
European Vacation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Foote Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
House Calls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Medusa S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Needle & Spoon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Zee Tree T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 375 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Lloyd Price and Joe Fitchens, July 1972
Page Views: 5,606 total · 42/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details


First pitch is a nice warm up. The 2nd pitch is why this route is great. It starts steep and technical and stays that way for about 70 feet. There's a bolt about 2/3s up that is your pro for some thin slab moves. They called this R before, but with small cams and nuts, you can pro it just fine. Might be PG-13 to some, but for the area it's not. 3 pitch is a nice crack out.


North side of the dome. Look for the slab up to a ledge below a black water streak.


#2 C4 down to #0 C3.
Culver City, CA
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
Turns out you can link 1-3 w/ a 70m. This makes for a fun LONG pitch, as I was laying on my belly to build the anchor in the horizontal crack in the back of the ledge. I would agree with others that most will likely find this to be PG, as some falls would not be that clean. Jul 21, 2016
Patrick M.
  5.9 R
Patrick M.   Vancouver
  5.9 R
Stellar 2nd pitch and easy to link 2-3 with a 60m rope. Keep debating whether it's runout or not but this route is definitely R by any normal people standard (which most people commenting on MP thread are obviously not. It's great to be you). Sep 14, 2015
Redwood City
stuart.h   Redwood City
This route has a little bit of everything TM has to offer.

FA: Lloyd Price & Joe Fitchens 7/72 Apr 9, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9 PG13
I do this route every time I pass through Toulome. Absolutely wonderful, requires good head but is all there if you use your feet. Still PG 13 I think. Jul 7, 2011
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
We started with the bolted 5.9 slab start, then linked pitches 2 and 3. Done this way, this is a new favorite TM multi-pitch for me; steep, fun, some good cracks, and just run-out enough to be exciting without being upsetting.

Standing at the bolt that protects the runout, the climbing feels hard and tenuous. But the bolt is protecting the hardest stuff; once you step up and over the overlap it's pretty cruiser to the crack and good gear. Aug 15, 2010
Tommy L-D  
Pitches 2&3 link w/ a 60m, and make for an amazing time.

I wouldn't do it any other way. Aug 9, 2010
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
The second pitch is simply superb. However, I do not see how you could pro up anywhere on the face after leaving the bolt and before making the crack at the end.

We chose the 5.9 bolted-to-5.6 R start: the best option to start p1 I think!

I'd say the scare factor is somewhere between PG13 and R on just a section or two. Jul 6, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
4 pitches of technical climbing.

The 5.8 runout on pitch 2 feels runout not because of the distance between pro, but because a fall will propel you over an overhang and onto the slab below--which will surely hurt. The consequence of a fall is not merely a long slide. Jul 23, 2007