Type: Trad, Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches
FA: Dan Zimmerlin
Page Views: 19,822 total · 100/month
Shared By: littlemike on Nov 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

Zee Tree Route is a well-bolted face climb located to the right of the Dike route and ascends an independent line for 3 pitches, after which it joins House Calls and Boche-Dope in a left facing book which leads to the base of the crack pitch of the Dike Route.

The climbing is fairly varied. The first pitch, which is the most interesting, starts at a two bolt anchor just where the angle steepens and ascends a short slightly steep section of knobs (2 bolts with old leeper-style hangers), crosses glacier polish (2 bolts) to a miniature roof. Step over the roof (1 bolt) and pass a small tree growing in a solution pocket (Zee Tree). The pitch originally ended at the tree, but to reduce impact on the fragile tree, the route now passes the tree on the right and ascends (5 bolts) to a comfortable stance and a two bolt anchor. This pitch is a full 165 feet.

The angle slackens above and the climbing eases as well. The second pitch is easy (5.5?) face climbing past 3 bolts to a another two bolt anchor. The final pitch is also easy face climbing , though interesting as the angle varies. It heads up and right past 2 bolts, then straight up and ends in a left facing book. This belay requires gear, medium nuts to medium friends.

To exit, climb up the left facing book and belay near the base of the crack pitch on the Dike Route. Either climb this crack (pro to #4 friend) and rappel the east end of Pywiak, or walk off to the west (not recommended).

Descent options

Option 1: Climb the 5.7 crack on the fourth pitch to the top of the dome and belay your second from the tree. Walk east towards the summit of the dome. Continue over the summit; you should see a large, obvious cairn just beyond a brief 3rd/4th class downslope. Use the anchor by the cairn (see KG's 2021-06-14 photo) to rap ~30 feet. From the base of the rap, walk around to climber's right and northeast(?) down a gully to reach the ground.

Option 2: Skip the fourth pitch and descend climber's right from the base of the 5.7 crack to the west. From the top of the third pitch this looks sketchy and it's unclear why anyone would choose this over Option 1.

Option 3: Skip the fourth pitch and traverse climber's left along the slab (below the intermediate shelf) to find a rap anchor. Rappel requires two 60m ropes.

The route was put up in good style. A mix of eighteen 5/16 and 3/8 inch bolts were placed by hand, on lead, from the ground up, though not in a continuous push. Two others were "filled in" while seconding after leading though originally, to eliminate uncharacteristic runout sections.

Location

Pywiack Dome

Protection

Well Bolted except for the last pitch

Photos