Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Harvey T. Carter, Ken Wyrick, 27 September 1974
Page Views: 11,258 total · 72/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Start on the left side of the Crooked Arrow Spire.
P1-5.8-Climb up 20' of "solid" chockstones. (Once on top of chockstones place a piece of gear high in a crack on the left to avoid horrid rope drag.) Walk/scramble to back of chimney, climb 3 cracks to a intermediate belay(we stopped here but to do the route in 2 pitches continue 50' to a belay in the col between the spire and the wall.
P2-A1-Climb Bolts and fixed pins with 2 gear placements to summit. We counted 31 bolts/fixed pins. The last two 1/4" bolts don't have hangers but are on a slab and are pointing upwards.


Descent- We rapped from the top to the intermediate belay on pitch 1(with two 60m ropes) then to the ground. I don't think you can rap the route with one rope because of the last pitch.


Standard desert rack. 2 ropes.


Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Thought the route was great fun ,really liked the classic chimney . the guide book discription is not very accurate .Its two good pitches to the gap, and the bolt ladder is longer(more bolts) Apr 6, 2003
RE: pitch one; We made it to the gap in one 60 meter pitch. Unique pitch, chimneying and jamming 50 feet back in the chimney. It seemed more like 5.9 R. Nov 20, 2003
Can anyone give a better discription. Eric's old school aid description doesn't make it sound that great. It looks so cool i'd like to know what it's like. Thanks Oct 12, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
I did the awful hump to the base a few years ago. The first pitch is an awful looking squeeze chimney. We brought nothing big(not sure if anything would fit) and we were light duty so we bailed.

If you loved leading Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest, the first pitch is for you. Oct 13, 2004
Chimney to bolt ladder- what more do you want? Go find out.

Not to violate the Guidelines or nuthin, but isn't this stuff supposed to be about adventures? May 13, 2005
Tom Willard
Avon, CO
Tom Willard   Avon, CO
There is somewhat of a trail to the viewers left of the spire which avoids both cliff bands. Look for the large boulder just off the road to find the trails start. May 2, 2009
The chimmney is by no means R rated. You can get a SOLID piece about every 6-8 feet. the longest runout was about 15' on very easy terrain. You dont need big gear either. Great route. Apr 25, 2010
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Liz Wattenberg and I replaced many of the relics on this thing with modern ASCA stuff yesterday. Of the 15-20 bolts on the ladder I think I redid like 8 or 9. I left the most interesting museum pieces but set it up so if they fail you would have a hard time zippering the whole thing. The top requires a body length of easy free climbing. The new summit anchor is just under the cap rock as the stones on t he summit are pretty weak and not actually connected to the tower. Most of the pieces I pulled were still difficult to get out. However one, a pin about 25 feet up, was essentially an aluminum RURP. It came out scary-easy. Oh, I spaced a couple of the pulls as I rapped off (we were running way-late). If you go up, please take a hammer and a funkness and yank those two that are next to new bolts. Sorry about that...

A set of nuts is useful on the last pitch.

My advice to anyone doing this is to NOT try and walk straight up the scree slop from the road. I ruined our day by doing this. Go up the draw a mile or so before finding a vegetated slope that comes up on the climber left as Tom said.

Interesting route, unique setting, and wild summit. It will be sad when this one topples over! May 21, 2010
Peter Blank
Grand Junction, Colorado
Peter Blank   Grand Junction, Colorado
We broke the climb into three pitches. Up shitty stones at base (the hardest climbing of the route) and into the back of the chimney. This got the belayer out of the sun and into the shade. Then another longish pitch up the fantastic chimney to the base of the bolt ladder. One more to the top. I took a single set to #4 and a set of stoppers and thought this was perfect. For the top pitch take a .75 and or 1 for just a few feet off the ground and a set of small stoppers. Leave everything else at the base of the bolt ladder. Great route on a hot day. May 24, 2012
DaveT   Albuquerque
Looks like Peter Blank sums it up well regarding pitch breakdown and gear, except I found a double set of cams practical for P2. Also I carried a #5 and used it (P2), but there were probably alternatives. We intended to do the route in 2 pitches but ended up adding a belay as he describes...it made a lot of sense for rope management and sun protection, and then P2 is fairly long and really friggin good. Aug 13, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.9 A1
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.9 A1
did it 9-9-12 with drake and taylor. go .9 miles past castle valley turn off and take a right on the dirt road. if you have a real good 4x4 you could drive to the trail head. otherwise park in as far as possible and walk the wash to the giant lone boulder. gently saunter up the good trail that follows that dirt fin to the mesa. a few 5.9 moves puts you into a dirt shoot chimney. good belay in back at the base of the business. long classic chimney to a good ledge and belay. like everyone above says one or two cams and one or two stoppers. my frostworks sentinel nuts worked awesome! bolt ladder, some small bieners like nanos may be helpful. it was a little hard to clip some of the old hangers. bomber rap anchors on top. THANKS SAM!!! cleaned the remaining old stuff. rap the route. stroll back the way you came. great route. took the three of us 10.5 hours house to house (moab). Sep 12, 2012
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, CO
There is a scary chockstone about 2/3 of the way up the chimney that moves and looks quite precarious. Don't yard on it! Its easy to stem over. Oct 22, 2012
Zeb Rafaker
Zeb Rafaker   Moab
Bring a light rack for this one. We brought and old #4 and used it but could have been fine with out it. Bring a BD #1 and .4 for the last pitch. Oct 7, 2013
moab, utah
  5.8 C1
jakobi   moab, utah
  5.8 C1
If you climb this route you should bring your Doctor Dre Beats speaker and Ipod to do some soul slackin' on the neon yellow highline that's fixed to the mesa! Don't forget your GoPro! Jul 9, 2014
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.8 C1
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.8 C1
Its possible to rap off this route with one 70m rope. The first rap reaches with rope stretch and you'll have to stop at the intermediate belay in the chimney for the last rap to reach.

I used one #1 Camalot and one offset stopper for the last pitch. Jul 17, 2014
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.8 A0
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.8 A0
I'm guessing it's Sketchy Andy......but somebody take that slack line off from the summit!!

It's been there for several months. Two or three brand new bolts are about 5 ft above the normal bomber anchor??

I have nothing against slack lining. I think its an incredible talent but when you go around adding bolts where there is no need to add them, and when you leave your stupid line up for months....not cool

Ruins the peace you get in the desert when you hear the flapping of the line the whole day against the wind.

I will personally take it off, myself, if it is not taken down soon. May 5, 2015
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
Mack Johnson   Silverdale, WA
I believe I did the second ascent of this in 1978 with Peter Gallagher. We thought the first bit was 5.7 but those were the days. We had no idea it had been climbed, and it was a relief to find that bolt ladder. I used 2 small wires at the start of the bolts, and nothing else. I thought I was pretty cool aiding off an original #1 Chounard stopper endwise; now I shudder at the memory. Nov 19, 2016
We did it in two pitches, running the first pitch 200' all the way to the base of the bolt ladder, but I would have enjoyed it a lot more if I'd stopped at the intermediate belay in the chimney. I like sewing it up, and was quite happy to have a #5 friend, since it was the only gear I was able to place for about 20' for the hardest part of the chimney. Driving up the wash to the start of the trail was relatively easy in a Jeep (some narrow sections around rocks), there was a Subaru up there as well. Mar 23, 2017
Did it in two pitches and am happy that we did it that way. It is possible to rap from pitch 1 anchors all the way to the ground with a double rope rappel. This skips rapping into the chimney and using the slung chockstone. The pull was easy and the rope fell all the way to the ground. Apr 7, 2017
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
Hi Mack Johnson. You climbed this route with me on March 25, 1978 on the same trip we made two first ascents of short unclimbed spires (Baby Sister & Family Member) in the Sister Superior Group). You & I made the 2nd ascent of this route on the Crooked Arrow Spire. There was a summit register in a plastic bottle. I have a few slides of our ascent, including ones of you on the summit.

Those were great times in the Castle Valley. The four of us that went on that Spring Break trip were probably the majority climbers in the area. We finally ran into a few of our comrades from Colorado Springs. Those were the days when a climber could find true desert solitude May 10, 2017
Andrew Park
Grand Junction
Andrew Park   Grand Junction
-single .3 to 3 and med-small nuts.
-linked first pitch to the base of the bolt ladder.
-place 3 high on crack before walking to the back of the chimney to avoid rope dragging on rocks
-1, .75, and smaller off set nuts to supplement the 30 bolt ladder
-short double rope rap from top to base of bolt ladder and double rope rap to the start of the climb. (possible to stay out of the chimney when rapping. Oct 28, 2018
Ryan Rex
Spanish Fork
Ryan Rex   Spanish Fork
i thought the chimney was quality, fun climbing. brought doubles and wished id only brought singles. theres a 15 foot section where the only pro I got was a tipped 6, but I would have felt fine without it, its pretty secure.

bolt ladder in decent shape. you never clip more than 4-5 relics before you encounter a solid, modern ASCA bolt. with some simple back cleaning, I only used about 20 draws. (whenever I reached a beefy bolt, I just back cleaned the last clip or two). didn't use any nuts, theres two sections where you'll need to place gear to reach the next bolt. ymmv. fun day Nov 26, 2018