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Longbow Chimney
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A1
Avg: 3.2 from 39
votes
Routes in Parriot Mesa
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Ascended Yoga Masters T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R |
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Happy Ending T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Hot Yoga T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Longbow Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 |
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Monochrome Era T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C2 |
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Mountaineers Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Skin Ambivalence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Super Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 38.6727, -109.40484 |
| FA: | Harvey T. Carter, Ken Wyrick, 27 September 1974 |
| Page Views: | 15,282 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Jun 18, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Start on the left side of the Crooked Arrow Spire.
P1-5.8-Climb up 20' of "solid" chockstones. (Once on top of chockstones place a piece of gear high in a crack on the left to avoid horrid rope drag.) Walk/scramble to back of chimney, climb 3 cracks to a intermediate belay(we stopped here but to do the route in 2 pitches continue 50' to a belay in the col between the spire and the wall.
P2-A1-Climb Bolts and fixed pins with 2 gear placements to summit. We counted 31 bolts/fixed pins. The last two 1/4" bolts don't have hangers but are on a slab and are pointing upwards.
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