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Routes in Parriot Mesa

Ascended Yoga Masters T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R
Happy Ending T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Hot Yoga T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Longbow Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1
Mountaineers Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skin Ambivalence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Voodoo Child T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jay Smith and Jack Tackle
Page Views: 911 total, 108/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 13, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Super Natural is a great line offering a fine desert climbing experience with a little bit of adventure and plenty of good, clean cracks. Many options seem to exist on climbing this line and it seems like it could be done in 4 to 6 pitches, depending on your ability to run together some long pitches.

Pitch 1 (5.8 or 5.10): The intended start is in the wide corner that starts up and left from the large detached block, or mini tower. The topo describes it as going at 5.8. We did not climb this option so can offer no more help. It looks easy enough but not as attractive as the option we took.

Another pitch 1 option is to climb what is intended as the 1st pitch of Spirit World. It climbs the obvious crack in the shallow corner with a wide section before a small roof. Going at 5.10, it is harder than the original 5.8 start but it's a great pitch of climbing, offering just enough to make it go at 5.10. An extended section of #4 Camalot sized cracks warms you up for a little choss navigation before a wide section and an exciting move through the roof that is well protected. After pulling on to the ledge, you could set a belay or continue up on easier terrain. First a hand crack in a corner and then easy chimney climbing under some chock stones to a ledge with 2 bolts. This provides for ~190' pitch.

Move the belay to the large corner system on the left via 2nd/3rd class easy scrambling. Here we were unclear of exactly where to go. It appears on the topo that you could perhaps go up to a chockstone and belay. We went into the chimney and belayed at the base of the corner system on a small pedestal of rock and this proved to be a fine way to do it, although it makes the 2nd pitch longer.

Pitch 2 (5.10, 175'): An awesome, long pitch of climbing up the corner with a variety of sizes and plenty of face features to keep the difficulty down except for a section up high where you'll actually have to dig your mitts into a wide hands and fist crack for real. Belay at the Voodoo Ledge with small gear (.2-.4 Camalot size).

Pitch 3 (5.8ish, 100'): Two options seem to exist. One is to go left from the belay and do what appears to be an exposed and probably unprotected step across to a wide crack. We opted for the straight up version which involved stemming and jamming directly above the anchor. Climb the corner system until you can move left across the calcite covered face. We moved left at the top of the corner. Belay on the rubble strewn ledge with #.3-.4 Camalots and/or #2-3 Camalots.

Pitch 4 (5.9+, ~175'): Go up the "mud rock" looking roof where good stemming and jamming is found and decent enough of rock quality (it is the desert after all!). Above the initial roof, a couple options seem to exist. I stayed left on some solid finger jams with good rock followed by some awesome face holds. Above, work your way into the wide chimney and grovel your way to the top. Belay takes #1 and #2 Camalots with ease.

Go about 100' west to find the Voodoo Child top anchor and rappel that route. You can double rope rappel the first rap to Voodoo Ledge. If you're worried about the first pull you can rap twice to Voodoo Ledge on a single 60: rappelling first from the top of the mesa to the first anchor you find. Then, rappel from there to the Voodoo Ledge. Once on Voodoo Ledge do a full 200' rappel to the ledge at the top of the first pitch. Then, 175' to the ground.

Other than the top anchor, which has cord on it, the rest are Metolius rap hangers and hence, are devoid of tat.

Location

When you first turn off 128, there's a good road straight ahead with a big square shaped parking lot. This is for the equestrian trails. The climbing approach takes the immediate left after leaving 128 and there is a sign there indication climber access (although with no arrow). There is some initial roughness getting into the wash but it's mostly smooth with just a few tricky sections. Go 1.5 miles from 128 and look for the large (20+ foot boulder 100 yards off the road) and you'll most likely also spot the well worn trail down low on the hillside, below the large boudler. Find a wide spot in the wash and park well to the side. Take the trail to the base of the wall and traverse right, under Crooked Arrow Spire and after rounding the corner on to the northwest side look for a tall flake with a couple of bolts on it and a large detached block at the base of the wall.

Protection

Topo recommends 2-3 each of #.4-#3 and 2 #4s and 1 #5. I would alos take 2 #.3s, for anchors primarily, and doubles up to #.75 and triples from #1 to #3. If you want to play it more conservative you could take a cam smaller than .3 and you could take a 6 where it might be nice on the 1st pitch but otherwise it seems like dead weight. You need 2 ropes or 1 rope and a tag line for the descent.
Dougald MacDonald  
  5.10
The first real moves on the 5.8 start seemed like the hardest moves of the climb. At least they're well-protected.

Despite what the topo shows, there should be no doubt about which way to go on the third pitch (pitch above the crux corner): Climb straight up the slot and left-facing corner above the belay, choose a 20-foot traverse line to the left to reach a crack, climb the crack to its top, then face climb left again to reach a big ledge. We chose to traverse about halfway up the upper corner, which was solid and fun and protected both leader and second reasonably well. Excellent pitch!

Breaking the first rappel in two seems like the way to go. The first 25m rappel ends at a very nice ledge and bomber anchors, and it was nice not to have any worries about pulling the ropes. Note that the next anchor down (the second if you do two single-rope rappels from the top) is quite a long way to the left of the rappel line, so be prepared to shuffle along the narrow Voodoo Lounge ledge to reach it. May 30, 2017
david goldstein
  5.10a
david goldstein  
  5.10a
One of the best easier tower routes. Four-star tower climbing but loses a star for some talus fields.

Note: the true summit of Parriot is on the south end, more than a mile from where this route ends.

We did the 5.8 start and managed to stretch it all the way to the start of pitch two, saving the belay relocation. Both the leader and follower were glad they weren't wearing a pack on this one.
We broke the 2nd pitch in two, belaying on a decent ledge about 50' into the pitch.
The 3rd pitch (our fourth) has a couple of terrific face climbing traverses.
The last pitch was about 120' and seemed about 5.8.

I'll rarely say that a rack recommendation was excessive, but in this case, I will. I would have been happy with the following: 2 each Camalot .3-#2, 4 #3 Camalots, 2 #4 Camalots, 1 #5 Camalots, 1 each nuts from small to 1" (e.g #1-#8 Rocks), many long slings or alpine draws. May 29, 2017
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
  5.10
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
  5.10
We climbed this on a recent warm April day in 5 pitches. By being in the shade most of the day, the temps were quite pleasant.

Pitch 1&2: we did the 5.10 start: it is a clinic in fist jamming! Then we did a separate traversing pitch to the corner, tunneling by the larger boulder and setting up a belay on a shelf as described. Pitch 3: the next pitch was confusing with several options. Here, the corner becomes a double corner with the "calcite face" in the middle section. The topo makes it look like you should stay to the left of the calcite face, and this is what we did, climbing a set of dihedrals and broken chimneys, ending up left of the "step across". Now I am sure that the previous ascents followed the crack to the right of the calcite face. Anyway, our path was also 5.10 but contained a lot of loose rock. Pitch 4: having ended up on the left side of the corner, we followed the features arching up and right, and then back left to the large ledge. Pitch 5 was as described for the final pitch.

Overall, I gave the route 2 stars because of the poor rock quality. The intended middle pitch is probably better rock than what we experienced, and I am sure the whole thing will clean up with more travel. Gear was generally adequate, where we made a lot of use of 3x #1-3, 2x #4, and #5.

We had no trouble doing the first double-rope rappel and pulling the ropes. Apr 26, 2017
jason malczyk
General Delivery
  5.10
jason malczyk   General Delivery
  5.10
Off the top we did a double rope rappel skipping the first anchors. The ropes did not pull until I jugged up to the rap station we past. Mar 13, 2017