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Routes in Parriot Mesa

Ascended Yoga Masters T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R
Happy Ending T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Hot Yoga T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Longbow Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1
Mountaineers Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skin Ambivalence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Voodoo Child T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charley Graham, Herb Crimp, Sam Burrell, Jim Madore, Dylan Warren: May '09 and FFA March '11.
Page Views: 1,264 total, 13/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 19, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A unique Wingate route, Thin Ambivalence is a #00 tcu seam with pods and crimps that just barely link together. The first crux is getting gear in at 15 ft., where a tiny cam will slide in. The next section has better pro and a weird move getting both your hands and feet into a small pod all at once. A sit-down ledge follows, providing a rest before the powerful laybacking and mantle above the bolt. Finally, easy climbing accesses the belay stance.

The second pitch is best accessed by moving the belay 40 ft. right by walking along a sloping ledge. build a natural anchor with small to medium cams and get ready for the steep tips and face climbing that awaits. This pitch is short but exciting and very high quality.

Location

Located in the center of the broad, flat southwest facing wall to the right of Ascended Yoga Masters on Parriot Mesa in Castle Valley. Thin Ambivalence begins from a spacious ledge, 50 ft. to the right of the obvious wide splitter, the Bob Novellino and Keith Reynolds classic Fat Crack Named Desire.

Protection

A single set of cams from #00 tcu to #4 Camalot and one quickdraw for the first pitch. The initial run-out is more enjoyable with a bouldering pad underneath you. There is one protection bolt and a fixed-stopper anchor. Take one additional green and yellow alien for the second pitch. Rappel from a two-bolt anchor with one 70 m rope.

Photos

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regarding "a fat crack named desire". i swapped pitches with the living ledgend keith reynolds. Mar 5, 2010