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Routes in Parriot Mesa
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Ascended Yoga Masters T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R |
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Happy Ending T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Hot Yoga T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Longbow Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 |
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Monochrome Era T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C2 |
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Mountaineers Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Skin Ambivalence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Super Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Charley Graham, Herb Crimp, Sam Burrell, Jim Madore, Dylan Warren: May '09 and FFA March '11. |
| Page Views: | 2,162 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | charley graham on Nov 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A unique Wingate route, Thin Ambivalence is a #00 tcu seam with pods and crimps that just barely link together. The first crux is getting gear in at 15 ft., where a tiny cam will slide in. The next section has better pro and a weird move getting both your hands and feet into a small pod all at once. A sit-down ledge follows, providing a rest before the powerful laybacking and mantle above the bolt. Finally, easy climbing accesses the belay stance.
The second pitch is best accessed by moving the belay 40 ft. right by walking along a sloping ledge. build a natural anchor with small to medium cams and get ready for the steep tips and face climbing that awaits. This pitch is short but exciting and very high quality.
The second pitch is best accessed by moving the belay 40 ft. right by walking along a sloping ledge. build a natural anchor with small to medium cams and get ready for the steep tips and face climbing that awaits. This pitch is short but exciting and very high quality.
Location
Located in the center of the broad, flat southwest facing wall to the right of Ascended Yoga Masters on Parriot Mesa in Castle Valley. Thin Ambivalence begins from a spacious ledge, 50 ft. to the right of the obvious wide splitter, the Bob Novellino and Keith Reynolds classic Fat Crack Named Desire.
Protection
A single set of cams from #00 tcu to #4 Camalot and one quickdraw for the first pitch. The initial run-out is more enjoyable with a bouldering pad underneath you. There is one protection bolt and a fixed-stopper anchor. Take one additional green and yellow alien for the second pitch. Rappel from a two-bolt anchor with one 70 m rope.
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