Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Ascended Yoga Masters
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British A0 R
Avg: 3.2 from 13
votes
Routes in Parriot Mesa
|
|
Ascended Yoga Masters T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R |
|
|
Happy Ending T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
Hot Yoga T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
|
|
Longbow Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 |
|
|
Monochrome Era T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C2 |
|
|
Mountaineers Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Skin Ambivalence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Super Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Voodoo Child T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy, George Hurley |
| Page Views: | 6,531 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | andrew kulmatiski on Oct 16, 2005 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route follows a right-arching chimney on the SW corner of Parriot Mesa, obvious from the top of Pace Hill on Castle Valley Road. We found no trail on the talus cone though there is apparently a trail to the 5th-class descent -- see below. To gain access to the start of the route, stay high continuing about 200' left on the ledge with a TV antenna.
P1: The first pitch starts with a 5.9 layback boulder problem and quickly leads to a fun squeeze to wide chimney. Protect using long slings on chockstones and a #2 cam near the top, 120' to belay pin.
P2: At this point we diverged from the original route -- moving directly to the back of the chimney (4th class) and 20' up a fun hand crack and onto a large chockstone, 100' 5.9. We think the original ascent continued up the chimney at the face for 60' to a chockstone/ledge. The FA party must have then moved 50' into the tunnel without protection while 60' above the choss pile. We followed a chossy tunnel that moves directly back into the cliff. traversed into the back of this chimney from 60' up. Our variation allows fun, protected climbing from the base of the chimney. The original route allows you to either 1) grow your sack three sizes, or 2) die trying.
P3-P4: From the chockstone the business begins. A 5.10 hand crack/ layback crack leads up about 30' until it possible to begin stemming. Stem or layback another 150' in a bizarre setting to drilled warthogs at the top of the arch. From the warthogs continue about 20' up slab, take a right and continue another 20' on a large ledge where a large flake leans against the wall (belay here).
We broke this 150' section into 2 pitches. There is a crack that sucks up #1 Camalots at the back of the arch for the first 100'. The second, 50' pitch takes yellow to green to blue Aliens.
P5: Stand on the balanced block and aid through 3 bolts to 5.7 (exfoliating) face climbing and the top (50').
We couldn't find the 5th-class descent; we think the description in Bjornstad is inaccurate. Scope out the descent before climbing. From the summit there appears to be 200' cliffs for the entire 'circumference' of the butte. A better description of the location of the descent can be found in the comments below.
P1: The first pitch starts with a 5.9 layback boulder problem and quickly leads to a fun squeeze to wide chimney. Protect using long slings on chockstones and a #2 cam near the top, 120' to belay pin.
P2: At this point we diverged from the original route -- moving directly to the back of the chimney (4th class) and 20' up a fun hand crack and onto a large chockstone, 100' 5.9. We think the original ascent continued up the chimney at the face for 60' to a chockstone/ledge. The FA party must have then moved 50' into the tunnel without protection while 60' above the choss pile. We followed a chossy tunnel that moves directly back into the cliff. traversed into the back of this chimney from 60' up. Our variation allows fun, protected climbing from the base of the chimney. The original route allows you to either 1) grow your sack three sizes, or 2) die trying.
P3-P4: From the chockstone the business begins. A 5.10 hand crack/ layback crack leads up about 30' until it possible to begin stemming. Stem or layback another 150' in a bizarre setting to drilled warthogs at the top of the arch. From the warthogs continue about 20' up slab, take a right and continue another 20' on a large ledge where a large flake leans against the wall (belay here).
We broke this 150' section into 2 pitches. There is a crack that sucks up #1 Camalots at the back of the arch for the first 100'. The second, 50' pitch takes yellow to green to blue Aliens.
P5: Stand on the balanced block and aid through 3 bolts to 5.7 (exfoliating) face climbing and the top (50').
We couldn't find the 5th-class descent; we think the description in Bjornstad is inaccurate. Scope out the descent before climbing. From the summit there appears to be 200' cliffs for the entire 'circumference' of the butte. A better description of the location of the descent can be found in the comments below.
7 Comments