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Routes in Parriot Mesa
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Ascended Yoga Masters T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R |
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Happy Ending T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Hot Yoga T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Longbow Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 |
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Monochrome Era T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C2 |
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Mountaineers Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Skin Ambivalence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Super Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 38.6727, -109.40484 |
| FA: | Sam Boyce, Andrew Parnas June 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,623 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Jun 25, 2016 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Located on the SW face of Parriot Mesa, in between "ascended yoga masters" and "fat crack named desire". It links together a lot of high quality and clean splitter climbing.
P1 5.11 130ft Start below the massive right facing corner with a couple easy face moves to gain a short, steep hand crack. OW up to a roof that has a VERY size dependent move and into the squeeze. This would feel sporty for those who cant fit in the squeeze. Squeeze up until it chokes down to a #5/6 crack (crux) then wide #5 and #6 for what seems like an eternity. Eventually you can get some ball nuts or micro nuts/cams in on the left to ease your mind as you bump. An easy finger crack leads you up to a stance. A scary block (solid but wobbly) will push you back right for a couple easy OW moves to the belay ledge. Thin hands gear for anchor.
P2 5.10 110ft Straight up from the belay past a fun hand crack roof, then much easier #6 crack to a ledge. Then bust out your spelunking cap as you tunnel straight back into the huge gash with no pro all the way back and belay on a chockstone (top of p2 for yoga masters)
P3 5.10 140ft Jam and layback straight up in some really bizarre geometry, after a while you can start to chimney/stem. #1's for the first 100' then smaller gear protects as the difficulties ease up. End at a couple drilled warthogs.
P4 5.Easy 25ft Up a short slab to a ledge and turn right to belay off one of many boulders.
P5 5.7 A0 40 ft Move to the far end of the ledge, gain a bolt ladder off a boulder, then 3 bolts of A0 leads you to a short bit of 5.7 face to the summit.
Descent: Two options, rap ascended yoga masters with a single 70 or walk off the mountaineers route across the mesa. I've done both, and would recommend rappelling. The first rappel is off the bottom two bolts in the last pitch bolt ladder (if you want to summit and rappel you will have to downclimb this pitch). This is a full 35 M rope stretcher straight down. Then 20 M straight down the the floor of the chimney, it may be prudent to stay high in the chimney for a clean rope pull then downclimb to the next anchor (4th class but SUPER loose, give a belay). Then 35 M straight down to the ground. Once packed up turn skiers left and crawl under the roof, and your at your packs. This route could honestly use bolted anchors, and both yoga masters and hot yoga would benefit from an anchor on the summit.
Location
Park at one of the pull outs past the standard parking spot (the one with the road) as this is private land and the owners have recently posted no trespassing signs. Then follow one of the many washes. The path of least resistance loosely follows the wires for the tv antenna. Once you get up to the mesa turn left, scramble over the tv antenna and head toward ascended yoga masters, you will shortly arrive at the base. approach takes about an hr with packs.
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