Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,667 total · 11/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on May 4, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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On the approach to Reggie Dome a large dark face is the first thing encountered, facing west. This face route runs up the middle of this rock, starting directly behind an obviously large pine tree. Climb past a bolt and follow a 1/4 inch seam/crack protectable in only one place by a .75 camalot or similar. 40 feet later another bolt is encountered. Go straight up here for harder moves, or veer left from the bolt and follow big holds to the top. A bit contrived, and could use another bolt between the two existing to make it better for the beginner leader (it is beginner material)


Two bolts, small/medium cams. Bolts/rings 90 feet up

Upgraded Pro now has 4 bolts as of 9/2015-A. Stackhouse


Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
On the rounded righthand corner of this face, 10 feet right of Fender Bender is another route or variation called Thomson's Acne, 5.10b R/X. Face climb past the crux with no pro for 30+ feet. May 4, 2006
San Diego, CA
Taryn   San Diego, CA
IF you go straight up from the second bolt, beware. There is a thin ridge for your feet, with your shins at bolt level, and no/few good hands to lend confidence. A fall while pullng the next moves would mean decking on the slab below you. Veer left if you get skeezed. NOT a good climb on a windy day. Oct 22, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I stepped fairly straight up off the second bolt, then a step to the right, up, then placed a #2 TCU in the bottom of the crack (below the person at the belay in the photo). Seemed like an uncontrived and natural way to go. Fun route. Jan 2, 2008
Friction and tiny ridges. Nov 8, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
As Adam noted on the description the route is contrived. Pass the first bolt, then left to the crack. Climbing away until you hit a ledge and see that the next bolt is way to the right. Taking the obvious weakness and natural line is not the route. Clip second bolt, followed by what is probably the crux leads you to the bolted anchors.

For mileage purposes probably still worth doing if you're in the area. That or, you're looking to hit 1000 Josh routes, warming up, within your grade profile, etc. For a destination route?......probably not. Rock quality and slab moves are fun enough. Just contrived. Nov 4, 2012
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
This route kinda blew ass. The most interesting thing was the fact the low angle crack is blown out with pin scars! Totally contrivo and should really be straightened out and fixed up by the midnight bolt police. Difficulty depends on the line you choose, but skipping the route altogether would not be a bad option either. Nov 4, 2012
Wes D
Brevard, NC by way of CA
Wes D   Brevard, NC by way of CA
This climb seems a bit more interesting if you climb straight up and to the right after the first bolt, instead of taking the crack to the left....and do the same after the second bolt. Apr 15, 2013
Lisa J
Lisa J  
I thought it was a good route! Pretty easy for the grade. Good rock quality. Worthwhile. Dec 18, 2013
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
This climb now sports 4 bolts leading to the anchor. Oct 1, 2015
Jeff K
Jeff K  
All bolts are right where you'd want them. This climb was all about friction. I got a lot of amusement out of some of the moves needed to be made. There were at least a moment or two I thought, "this can't be possible!" only to trust the feet, lean in, and move on. Feb 19, 2018
Climbed this yesterday. It's not a JT classic, but if you climb straight up the face following the bolt line it's a decent climb.Trust your feet for the moves between the 3rd and 4th bolt...there isn't much for your hands at all. It was worth the effort. Apr 5, 2019