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Routes in Reggie Dome

Chief, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Curbside T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fender Bender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fresh Squeezed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hairline T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Handicapped Zone T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Irresponsibility Lessons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Meter Maid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mole, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ninny's Revenge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pop Goes the Weasel TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pops Goes Hawaiian T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Reggie Zigzags T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short Cut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Speed Bump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tender Flakes of Wrath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thompson's Acne T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Thomsons Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
What A Drag It Is Getting Old S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob & Yvonne Gaines, 2001
Page Views: 2,098 total, 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start amongst boulders and climb a curving crack up and right to the point where it becomes a horizontal (optional 2.5" pro here), then make an easy but committing move to reach the first bolt. Steep slab climbing (5.9) with positive edges continues up and right until a stance is reached below a short headwall. Steep, well-protected moves on incut patina edges lead up and left out the headwall (5.9), finishing with some slabby moves on slightly gritty rock.

The anchor on top is set well back from the edge and may require a walk off if long slings aren't in place. To descend head east and then back west along a series of ledges, pass a dubious-looking block and finish by downclimbing an easy chimney.

A fun and well-protected route that is ideal on cold days as well as escaping the crowds typical of more popular walls. Two stars out of five.

Location

Located just to the right of Tender Flakes of Wrath and Sunny Delight on the southwest corner of Reggie Dome.

Protection

7 bolts (all 3/8"), anchors (5/16"); optional 2.5" piece for before the first bolt

Photos

Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
  5.10a
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
  5.10a
Thanks Bob! Great route and awesome finger jugs! Jan 4, 2015
Bob Gaines  
 
I'd rate the slab 5.9 and the bulging headwall at the top 5.10a/b, with the caveat that the first few moves on the bulge are reachy: the shorter you are, the harder it will seem. There is a bit of rust on the nuts on the bolts (they are threaded 3/8-inch Rawls), but all the protection bolts themselves are in good shape.

The anchor bolts are 5/16-inch Rawl Drives, both protruding slightly and both spinners. I'll replace these when I get a chance. Dec 24, 2014
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a
or maybe it was Tender Flakes of Wrath ? Mar 12, 2014
Bob Gaines  
 
I wouldn't call the holds at the top "jugs"

C Miller's route description of "incut patina edges" is more accurate, as these holds are edges less than an inch wide.

Maybe you could call them "finger jugs" Mar 12, 2014
RTM
RTM  
Perhaps you were on a different route? This climb is fairly new and has fresh bolts, and unless all the jugs broke off of the headwall... Mar 11, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
rusty bolts, hollow rock, and hard moves make this less than appealing for me. if the rock was better and the bolts were better, maybe, but as it is, the spook factor is high enough not to warrant a return trip.

also, the guide mentions something about a jug haul- as it is, i didnt see any on the route, the biggest edges were about a pad deep, but most were less. Mar 10, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Thanks Beth but I don't think any gear is necessary getting to the 1st bolt but if that's what gets your head on, go for it.

Much like RTM the crux in my opinion was low. Specifically clipping the 2nd bolt. From the base you veer at the top section wondering what's up there just to be pleasantly surprised. Anchors are nice, love seeing bolts! Although, you may want to bring of those rabbit runners or something to extend past the low angle stuff. We thankfully didn't shred our rope but had pulled it through for our second leader so that probably helped. Nov 13, 2012
Fluoride
Los Angeles, CA
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
"Bolts on summit are not exactly that great"

Not great to do for top roping the route either. Will be a rope shredder. We know. Nov 12, 2012
Fluoride
Los Angeles, CA
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
Sooze's comments are dead on.

Great route. Need gear down before the first bolt. Second to third bolt is challenging

Crux is probably bolt 1 to 2 after the roof.

A pumpy, edgy route and a lot of fun. Great route on a cold day. Faces south and gets sun on that black rock and protected from winds by Reggie Dome. Nov 12, 2012
RTM
RTM  
I found the crux to be a slab move down around the 2nd or 3rd bolt. Nov 6, 2012
Fluoride
Los Angeles, CA
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
Great route for a cold day in the winter months. Gets a lot of sun.

First part is pure fun. Moving into the second part is the crux. All well done and a good route. Nov 6, 2012
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Good route. Can clip the first bolt while stemming from rocks to the right. A couple good moves moving past the first bolts, probably harder than the headwall stuff. Bolts on headwall are in sorta odd places and clipping can be done while either really low or really high on the various holds. Bolts on summit are not exactly that great, but adequate. Easy walk off to climbers right over the back of the summit. Nov 4, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Well protected, fairly good quality rock with varnished edges & plates. No additional gear needed before the 1st bolt (nor is stemming from the opposite wall, it is easily climbed direct) Head-wall deceiving and not the crux IMO. Anchor shares with Sunny Delight as Randy said, 2 bolts with lap-links. Bolt on the right is a bit loose, bring slings to extend if your party wants to TR. Walkoff available. Nov 4, 2012
We didn't walk off this climb. There were two slings on the bolts with rap rings. In fact, we used the anchors to TR Sunny Delight. SD is a great route with a wild lip to pull half way up! Fun Oct 18, 2006
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Fun little climb, shares anchor with routes to the left. May 4, 2006