Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Don Wilson & Karen Wilson, March 1986
Page Views: 2,447 total · 14/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This route is on the northwest face of Reggie Dome and climbs the prominent dike system immediately left of The Chief.

A bouldery start gains access to the "staircased" dike and a solitary bolt about 15' above the start. Higher, the dike dies out briefly and wild moves around a flake give access to the upper portion of the dike which ends at the same spot The Chief does.

There are two options for descending this route (and The Chief) - scrambling down an easy gully to the north or by rappelling from anchors (95' rap) atop the large slab just left of this route. A fun route that offers better protection than appearances might first suggest, this is a worthwhile route to do when in the vicinty. Two stars out of five.


Bolt (5/16"), gear to 3"


The route is somewhat difficult to protect for a beginning 5.7 leader. Don't fall before reaching the first bolt! Dec 5, 2004
I really liked this route. It does feel a little tenuous before the first clip and the flake above is loose and isn't worth putting anything in considering the climbing gets quite easy once you reach it. 2 stars! Oct 18, 2006
Dave Cox  
Sweet route. Felt pretty casual to the bolt but got a little vibratory motion in my right foot when trying to move up and over the little headwall. Found a place for a small alien to steady it. Apr 8, 2009
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
There is another way down from this climb. Walk to the south across the summit boulders to the very southwest corner of the top of the formation. There's pair of button-heads here, one with a spinner hanger, but I rapped off them on Sunday and they were fine. 70' to the ground.

Oh, and the old guide from Bartlett rates this a 5.7/8 PG. Vogel doesn't even give it a PG. Call it what you will, if you fall on your way to the first bolt, your day is going to end poorly. Nov 5, 2009
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
Found plenty of gear after the bolt. Great route on an interesting dike. Moves to the bolt are on positive holds and not stressful for the confident 5.7-5.8 leader. Jan 10, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Tons of routes with the 1st bolt being higher than this one. Does that make it an R? Landing would be grim, so have your belayer spot until you get established for safety if needed. Bolt, and gear available as you need it. Budding leaders may find placements difficult but they're there.

The route is interesting and absolutely worth doing if in the area. Dike has some broken pieces but that adds to the excitement. Anchors above are chopped but easily takes gear (as noted by others) for anchor or even TR set up. Rap utilizing Fender Bender anchors or walk-off using chimney to climber's right. Nov 4, 2012
Russ Walling
  5.7 R
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.7 R
Neat little route on a cool feature. Don't pop getting to the first bolt or you will be a mess. Nov 4, 2012
Tim Heid
  5.7 PG13
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.7 PG13
Fun route and really mellow.

However, that bolt could use a little love if anyone goes out there and has the time. It's sticking out about an inch and slightly bent downwards currently. Nov 24, 2014
Phil Esra
  5.7 X
Phil Esra  
  5.7 X
Whoever chopped the anchor bolts must have tried to pry out the low bolt also. It is badly bent and sticking out of its hole. Fun route, but no pro until after the crux (the bolt is a joke--don't kid yourself), so TR it or solo it. Big cams and tricky nuts are your anchor options for a TR. Mar 16, 2015
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
""Don't fall before reaching the first bolt!""

Don't fall anywhere on this one, me thinks. haha

But easy moves all the way. May 20, 2015
Reno, NV
  5.7 PG13
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.7 PG13
The start is not "bouldery;" it is rather easy (luckily) but totally uprotectable until the first bolt. The whole climb was a rush. I don't like anything run out, which this was, but at least the run out climbing is tame. Some good gear toward the middle is the last protection you'll have following the gear until the top. Really fun following the dike. Feb 14, 2016