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Routes in Tiny Tots Rock

Cole Lewis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Date Rape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dinky Doinks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fatal Flaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spontaneous Human Combustion T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tinker Toys T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Evans, Angione - 10/88
Page Views: 544 total, 4/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Clip bolt 1 and aim to stand on a small knob to clip bolt 2, which is an old Leeper. Marginal friction leads to bolt 3, which seems newer. Aim for a flat black hold, which enables a clip into another old Leeper (1/4 incher). A righthand sidepull flake leads, with ones head exploding, to the roof and a cam. Finish either left (large cam) or right. Rope drag can be a problem.

Location

The right edge of Tiny Tots

Protection

4 bolts and cams for the upper crack. A full length fall onto bolt 4 might shear it off. Until the upper 3 bolts are replced this route is an R/X IMHO.
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11+
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11+
Thin, hard, steep slab. Need I say more? Apr 27, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
I led this route about 10 years ago, when young and foolish, and Tony followed (and Fred Batliner also). Both of us agreed that it was a lot more desperate than we remembered; must've expunged it from our memories, or we're just getting old - or perhaps both. Apr 24, 2006