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Routes in Tiny Tots Rock

Cole Lewis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Date Rape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dinky Doinks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fatal Flaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spontaneous Human Combustion T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tinker Toys T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis
Page Views: 509 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 23, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Of the 60+ rotues I did on J-tree in my last trip there, this was the third-least enjoyable...Buford's House of Liver was worse, and Junk Yard God sucks bald dog nuts.

Anyway, the climb itself has some less-than nice rock and gear, and the belay up top is a pain & blinded from the nice views you get from the top of other routes. This line starts up a crack on the N. End of the E Face (no sun in the winter) and continues up to an area past some crumbling rock and right onto the NE end of the rock. This would be a mentally and physically harder lead for most moderate climbers than Dinkey Doinks (5.8) would be.

Protection

A standard light rack up to 4"

Photos

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Randy  
With a name like that, you could give a guess at the FA and be right. [Hint, FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis] Jan 12, 2004
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.7
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.7
I don't remember this being R at all. There were some fun moves, but it was pretty grainy and way short. Apr 30, 2008
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
A very nice finger crack in a corner for the first half, then move out left on the face around the roof to easy climbing. Extra finger size with possibly one large 4" cam at the roof. 2-3" for the belay. I didn't notice anything disagreeable with this route. Apr 7, 2009
J Smith
5.8
J Smith  
5.8
Ok route with a few fun moves. Short but all the routes on this rock are. Not any harder than Dinky Doinks, maybe easier. May 6, 2012
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Good climbing to roof then unprotected stemming to top (#6 cam :-). Easy belay anchor. No loose rock. Scramble straight down off back. Oct 22, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Nice route and absolutely worth doing while in the area. Standard hand size crack leads to a horizontal crack and cap before entering the wide. Horizontal break takes hand size gear and wide as much as a #5 if you've got it. Enjoyable, not grungy, eats gear and separate anchor from the area classics left. Nov 21, 2013

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