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Routes in Tiny Tots Rock

Cole Lewis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Date Rape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dinky Doinks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fatal Flaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spontaneous Human Combustion T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tinker Toys T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,890 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 23, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Description

Probably the best route on the wall. This is the most obvious crack line up the east face, the third from the left. Climb up on locks and jams though solid moves to the top. Good pro, good rack, good fun at a moderate grade. Not much winter sun on this though.

Protection

A standard light rack.

Photos

Vitaliy
  5.8
Vitaliy  
  5.8
vimeo.com/65992031 Jun 4, 2013
Canon
  5.8
Canon  
  5.8
Crux jams right off the deck, then pure fun. Nov 17, 2012
BrendanC
Sherman oaks, ca
  5.8
BrendanC   Sherman oaks, ca
  5.8
Felt like solid 5.8 to me. Crux is the 10-15 feet of pure/perfect hands right off the bat. If this section was any longer I might even vote for 5.9. Great pro the whole way. Very fun route. Walk off is fine, but I'd say there is a 5.0 move or two to get into the gulley. May 13, 2011
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Really liked this one, although not sustained. The pure crack crux jams at the bottom of this climb will test your technique, but are totally sinker. After that, fun, easy, juggy face.

I built the belay with a .5, 1, and 2 Camalot. 4th class downclimb is nothing to be concerned about, especially in comparison to other ones at Joshua Tree.

This would be a great climb to teach someone how to hand jam on. Dec 13, 2010
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.8+
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.8+
I thought this route was good fun, though I can't see how some might consider it 5.7. The moves through the crux seemed a bit more difficult than I expected, but whatever. Winger's guidebook had me more concerned about the down climb - which was not that big of a deal... definitely fourth classish, I have have seen WAY more "interesting" descents in Josh. Jun 12, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
A perfect anchor can be had by simply looping the rope around a block - use your big pieces on the route, where the crack widens at the bottom. Apr 24, 2006
vincent L.
Redwood City
  5.8
vincent L.   Redwood City
  5.8
bring big pieces for the anchor. there are no rap rings on this formation. you can scramble down the back. Jan 24, 2005