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Routes in Tiny Tots Rock

Cole Lewis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Date Rape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dinky Doinks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fatal Flaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spontaneous Human Combustion T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tinker Toys T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,197 total, 7/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on May 3, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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33 Opinions

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Description

This is the thin crack to the left of the wider crack Dinkey Doinks. This is on the east/northeast face. A beautiful crack that eases off after the crux at the bottom.

Protection

Takes small to medium nuts and cams. large pro for the anchor.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Really good route. Easy to fish in a nut to protect the first moves. I was too short to place the nut, but managed to get it in with a few shenanigans. Once established on the route, I thought 10b was fair for the opening 20' or so. Good gear the whole way, but expect to have to explore a bit. Hand size to #4 for anchor. Easy walk off down the left. Nov 19, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Looks somewhat improbable when looking at it dead on. From the base and quick glance up you may find that the gear, albeit small is available. Small cams & nuts which should seem obvious but found more hand size placements than I was anticipating and a perfect slot for a #2 camalot just for kicks. Gear anchor just like it's neighbors can range anywhere from 1.5-4". Nov 21, 2013
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
TR'd this which is worth doing if you can't lead this grade. Great climbing! Oct 22, 2012
Drederek
  5.10-
Drederek  
  5.10-
A very nice route but not a letter grade harder than Taxman. Mar 31, 2012
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10b
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10b
Ditto what Locker said, but maybe more like the bottom of the route all the way up! Anyway, really had fun on this route. Mar 18, 2011
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.10b
I really enjoyed this route. Any longer and it would bump up to 4 stars in my book. Jan 4, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.10b
I climbed this again recently and found the moves getting up to the horizontal to be in the 10b range. Beyond that, fairly consistent 5.9 climbing to the top. As Chris says, looping your rope around the block works great for an anchor. Apr 25, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
The move off the deck is easy - after which there is some technical stuff to the horizontal crack which in my opinion merits a 5.10b rating. A high quality route on steep rock with very nice moves.

Once again the rope can be hitched around a convenient block for a belay. Or is this a dying art? Apr 24, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
The whole grade route feels like 5.9 or 5.9+, really. Lots of stoppers will go in this thing too. I sewed it up the whole way, continously anticipating a 5.10 crux move that never appeared. Jan 11, 2004
Steve Powell  
 
A real nice route. only one questionable 5.10 move at the start. the rest of the route is 5.9 May 5, 2003