The Unsung War
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.88044, -121.98579 |
| FA: | Chad Suchoski, Jenn Codina |
| Page Views: | 3,023 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Mar 15, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This is a two pitch route. The first pitch climbs a runnout 60ft chimney with one bolt about half way up to a sandy spacious ledge. The second pitch climbs an over hanging hand crack (crux) for 12ft then up into a tight dihedral with everything from fingers to fists up to another spacious ledge where you traverse out right and up the face past a few bolts to the top.
The route's a bit dirty but not too bad, it has probably only seen two ascents. The bolts and anchors are all bomber and it takes gear well. Plenty of spots to fire something in.
This route is south facing and is always shaded. You can climb an arching crack out on the face to avoid the chimney on the first pitch. It’s a bit loose and not as fun. You can also traverse out left across the chimney to the buttress face at the start of the second pitch and climb 5.7RX to the top avoiding the crack system all together. I looked at it and gave it a brief go. I don't have the balls, maybe you do. Theirs one old mank bolt for pro, yippie.



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