Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pagoda Rock

Blue Zenith S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry December T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillar, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsung War, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Johnston, Bilotti 05/1990
Page Views: 2,941 total, 20/month
Shared By: Bo Johnston on Oct 15, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

This fun steep face can be found on the Pagoda's west face starting at the hills highest point. Just up from the Pillar route. Dicey moves start the climbing out and mellow in the mid section finishing with some excellent rock to the left summit of the Pagoda. A walk off is made fairly easily to the east via a cave system into the Bay Trees to the gully between Rock of Ages and the Pagoda. Enjoy!

Protection

7 bolts lead up the face with some movement from left to right and back so a few full length runners would be very helpful. There is no fixed anchor at the top but a small hole in the arete above the finish can be slung to top rope or use as an achor when finished.
Sergey - a 70m will get to the double bolted anchors at the top - see the discussion higher in the post between myself and salamizer. Don't try it with a 60m rope. Thats where the picture that I posted is taken from. Jan 17, 2015
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
  5.9
If you don't want to sling sandstone for TR, the end of the route is a run-out 5.2 scramble with one bolt, and rather chossy; anchors are at the top above the 5-9 next to it. You have to belay from the top, I don't think even 70 would reach the bottom from there. Last bolt needs a full length runner otherwise the rope drag will be a PITA.
Rappel from the back.
With all due respect to the setters (I'm a beginner), it seems like the top scramble a little way past the 2nd-to-last bolt (after the "first top-out") adds nothing to the route, it would be nice to have bolted anchors after the 2nd-to-last bolt. Nov 9, 2014
Take 3x 4ft slings up this route. The 2nd and 4th (or maybe 5th) bolt are off to the right and extending the draws here minimizes rope drag. The 3rd is for slinging the post in the cave right before the anchors on the top. May 12, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Half a 70m rope is like 115ft so if it's over half, then it's about 120/130ft. Still though, I would have thought it to be much longer than that. I know I've done it with a 60m and had plenty of rope left.

Well maybe that sounds about right. I've done Dry December and the Pillar in one pitch and both are about 150ft. Blue Zenith is shorter than both of those.

That ridge is pretty fun going up. I used to climb up through that big cave (the anchor for Blue Zenith) and free solo up to the top of the formation for the evening bird show. Seems like a bad idea these days. Mar 16, 2013
Took this all the way up to the top of Dry Decembers anchors - up the ridge. can clip the last bolt 'over the lip' then keep on going - sling a post one one of the big pockets and keep on going. Makes the route a little over half way on a 70m rope that way - so closer to 115ft.I found the climbing easier than dry december personally. All the holds (and feet) apart from one small section seemed super positive. Mar 15, 2013