The Unsung War
Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.6 from 5
FA: Chad Suchoski, Jenn Codina
> San Francisco B…
> Mt Diablo SP
> Pine Canyon
> Pagoda Rock
Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
This is a two pitch route. The first pitch climbs a runnout 60ft chimney with one bolt about half way up to a sandy spacious ledge. The second pitch climbs an over hanging hand crack (crux) for 12ft then up into a tight dihedral with everything form fingers to fists up to another spacious ledge where you traverse out right and up the face past a few bolts to the top. The route's a bit dirty but not too bad, its probably only seen two ascents. The bolts and anchors are all bomber and it takes gear well. Plenty of spots to fire something in. This route is south faceing and is always in the shade. You can climb an arching crack out on the face to avoid the chimney on the first pitch. Its a bit loose and not as fun. You can also traverse out left across the chimney to the buttress face at the start of the second pitch and climb 5.7RX to the top avoideng the crack system all together. I looked at it and gave it a brief go. I don't have the balls, maybe you do. Theirs one old mank bolt for pro, yippie.
This route is found on the south side of the Pagoda just to the right and behind the Pillar route. Its an obvious dark chasm chimney. You can rap the route barely with a 60m rope, or make a short rap down the back side of the Pagoda on a large chain anchor.
Nuts 1set Cams .5"-3" Bolted achors.