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Routes in Sleeping Beauty Wall

Burly Wench, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheshire Cat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glass Coffin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heather T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life O' Riley S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Poison Apple S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince Valiant S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea Hag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Beauty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarred and Feathered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Witch's Promise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Beth Gillia and Adam Read
Page Views: 2,463 total, 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 14, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

This is one really nice, pretty pumpy route typical of the best E-Tower area has to offer. The biggest holds you'll ever fall off and all that. Cheshire starts just to the right of the big black waterstreak on the right side of the Sleeping Beauty Wall. Latch onto the big jugs and keep hauling to the top.

Protection

4 bolts, 2-bolt anchor

Photos

Jilian Adel Wereb
Tucson, AZ
 
Jilian Adel Wereb   Tucson, AZ
 
Great Movement, perfect warm up. Great hands fantastic feet, really gives you the opportunity to geek out on some back stepping, flagging, and knee dropping without trying hard (depending on your level I suppose) Not always about just getting to the top but the journey you take to get there. Oct 6, 2014
Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
 
I used the kneebar rest and also found a handjam up a bit higher in a constriction at the bottom of one of the big jugs. Both were awesome, and I was happy I took them when I was working past the last bolt. Jun 4, 2014
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Cheshire Cat is one of the few routes that I have seen at the tower that has lowering hardware: 2 springer hangers. A third cold-shut anchor is also present. Jun 16, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Definitely a great route, I think some of the routes get lower quality ratings than they deserve because the routes on the tower are so great. Only comparable 10b I can think of in NM is Firewater at Sitting Bull Falls. Waiting to Procrastinate at Diablo and Drive by Shooting at Conchas are also great.

Don't miss the double kneebar rest. It is fun even if you don't need the rest. Dec 26, 2006
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.10b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.10b
It amazes me that people who apparently dislike this type of climbing so much, have climbed so many of these routes. I defy you to list another 10b sport route anywhere that is as fun as Cheshire Cat. Dec 10, 2006