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Routes in Sleeping Beauty Wall

Burly Wench, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheshire Cat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glass Coffin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heather T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life O' Riley S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Poison Apple S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince Valiant S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea Hag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Beauty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarred and Feathered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Witch's Promise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Betrand Gramont & Erik Hufnagel 10/87
Page Views: 929 total, 7/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 23, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Great overhanging pocket pulling! Start up a rock ramp, trending left to avoid the choss. Clip your first bolt just at the top of the ramp and the second one comes just there after. Technical crux was probably the first move after clipping the second bolt, it's just a matter of fighting through a pump factor after that. Just keep climbing, it gets easier near the anchor.

Location

Left of Glass Coffin and Sleeping Beauty.

Protection

4-5 bolts to sport anchor.

Photos

Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Kind of a short climb, but fun. This was my first attempt on a 5.11- climb, and I had a blast. Almost every pocket is huge, and will gobble up your entire finger (and will probably eat up some skin too). Someone left some nasty ticks on almost every pocket, luckily I wasn't planning on an OS attempt. I was going to brush them off after I finished, but by the time I clipped the anchor I forgot that I had a brush on my chalk bag. Oct 13, 2015