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Routes in Sleeping Beauty Wall

Burly Wench, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheshire Cat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glass Coffin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heather T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life O' Riley S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poison Apple S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince Valiant S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea Hag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Beauty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarred and Feathered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Witch's Promise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Bertrand Gramont and Don Goodhew 10/87
Page Views: 2,283 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Feb 15, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details


Sleeping Beauty is the steep, pocketed route just left of the obvious black streak in the Sleeping Beauty area. Scramble up the right side of the low angle ramp on unprotected but easy terrain to the first bolt. Clip it and then head up and slightly right up the overhanging face on pockets. Choosing the right pockets out of the multitude of chalked holds will be the deciding factor on whether you get the red point or not.


5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor/rap


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Great climbing up a smooth bulge festooned with pockets...some are good and some are not! Choosing the right pockets or having the endurance to hang out and search is the key to this climb. Feb 16, 2006
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
It's a sweet little climb, but just too short for 3 stars. Mar 23, 2006
Some of my friends and I have a saying for climbing at The Tower "Skip the crap, go big!". Meaning, make bigger moves from good holds to the next good holds and skipping the not so good. This certainly applies to this route and is a good rule of thumb to keep in mind for the whole area. Mar 27, 2006
Andrew Schmalzer  
I was on this route today, and while clipping off of the jug below the last bolt, I heard the hold crack. Be careful on this one. Sep 13, 2015

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