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Routes in Sleeping Beauty Wall

Burly Wench, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheshire Cat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glass Coffin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heather T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life O' Riley S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Poison Apple S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince Valiant S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea Hag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Beauty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarred and Feathered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Witch's Promise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: EFR, Mary Rudy, Erik Murdock,'05
Page Views: 482 total, 6/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 2, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Slab to bulge with pockets. A tad grungy in 2005 may be better now.

Location

On the buttress between Life O Riley and Witches Promise

Protection

Bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Dunbar Carpenter
Albuquerque, NM
 
Dunbar Carpenter   Albuquerque, NM
 
Were it not for slightly subpar rock quality, this would be a 3-star route in my book. An X-marked hold in the lower section and a little gritty in the upper; a little clean-up could help. Not as "pure" as Sleeping Beauty, but very interesting and varied climbing; definitely under-rated and as good as anything on this wall climbing-wise. May 30, 2016
None taken. I just wonder how we can complain about human impact at the tower and yet we keep bolting and posting routes. You can not have it both ways. May 3, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
Erik Whitbeck wrote:Why bolt a one star route?
No offense but, why not bolt the route smack in the middle of sport climbing area? It adds some variety, helps distribute crowds and offers another warm-up. One star is defined as "OK" and I've climbed many enjoyable one-star routes. If the FA folks have the time, energy and hardware, I believe it's a fine idea. May 3, 2011
Chuck McQuade
Golden, CO
 
Chuck McQuade   Golden, CO
 
If this is the route Im thinking about its actually not that bad, Id give it 2 stars for sure and say its defiantly worth tieing in for. May 2, 2011
Why bolt a one star route? May 2, 2011