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Routes in Sleeping Beauty Wall

Burly Wench, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheshire Cat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glass Coffin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heather T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life O' Riley S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Poison Apple S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince Valiant S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea Hag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Beauty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarred and Feathered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Witch's Promise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jeff Ford
Page Views: 937 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on May 26, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

A straight-forward and fun introduction climb to those new to the Tower area. Very featured climbing with loads of hold options with a steeper couple of moves at the top but still plenty of good holds to keep the rating reasonable.

Location

This is the first bolted route to the left of the corner/dihedral at the Sleeping Beauty wall.

Protection

4 bolts to chain anchor. The first bolt appears pretty high but the climbing to that point is very easy.

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
This is one of those routes, where I'm happy there is no way I could fall on 5.9 at the tower. I've done this route several times and it is both a chossfest and dangerously bolted if you were even going to think about falling. If you fell from the anchors, you'd likely ledge out pretty hard. Not a good beginners route, if you want an easy route the one to the left is much better. Apr 12, 2012
JMo
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
i believe the first ascent goes to Jeff Ford, now of Flagstaff-- thanks Jeff! fun climb, any longish spots between bolts are on easy terrain. Jun 8, 2010
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.9-
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.9-
Interesting comment above. I had avoided this route in the past because I'd heard that it was loose (ref: D. Jackson's Rock Climbing New Mexico), but that wasn't my experience at all. In fact, with the exception of the bottom 10 feet being loose in spots (easily avoidable), the entire route felt great. Perhaps traffic has cleaned it up a bit? Jun 16, 2008
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Particularly when those 50 ft are a giant chosspile. Jun 16, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.9-
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.9-
For the beginning 5.9 leader, 4 bolts on a route that's 50 feet long may get your attention. Fun climb though. Jun 16, 2008