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Routes in Sleeping Beauty Wall

Burly Wench, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheshire Cat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glass Coffin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heather T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life O' Riley S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poison Apple S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince Valiant S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea Hag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Beauty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tarred and Feathered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Witch's Promise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Gay and Keith Pike 11/87
Page Views: 1,158 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Feb 9, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Start below Sleeping Beauty and head up left on the low-angled ramp approach to the top of the mini slab. A good stance on top of the mini slab allows you to clip the first bolt. Watch out for a loose block at the top of the slab where it joins the headwall. From there, the business begins. Head up the constantly overhanging face above, pulling hard on small, but positive pockets. The first three bolts on this route are really close together, so watch out for the dreaded z-clip!
The crux comes around the third bolt and then hopefully you have the strength to go the distance to 4th bolt. Above the fourth bolt the climbing is relatively run-out to the chains but thankfully the climbing is on easier, juggier terrain.
Super fun route and a good introduction to 5.11- climbing at Enchanted Tower.

Protection

4 bolts and two newer shiny, goldish chains for anchors. It's obvious there used to be a three bolt anchor up top but that has now been replaced with the two bolts/chains setup.

Photos

Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11a/b
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.11a/b
Be careful at the top! A friend of mine got up as far as you could possibly get up (touching the top rim of the climb), put his hand onto a piece of loose rock, and took flight as it broke off. Since the last bolt was so far beneath him he sailed nearly to the low angle ledge at the beginning of the climb! He was fine, thankfully, though it was an exiting fall! Apr 21, 2008

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