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Routes in Sayers' Wall

Electric Swimming Pool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mad Scientist Variation, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mad Scientist, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mantle of the Leprechaun, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pike's Peak S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: see the Green RRCOS guidebook
Page Views: 4,591 total, 29/month
Shared By: Kris Carter on Dec 10, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This the 3rd route from the left on Sayers' Wall. It has the obvious start in the middle of the wall. It involves smearing with good protection. It seems hardest at the start. Move up and left until a solid finish up to the anchor. This is a solid climb and is worth doing.

Protection

Very well bolted - 5 bolts to a solid 2 bolt anchor.
David Tennant
Denver, CO
  5.7
David Tennant   Denver, CO
  5.7
I found the 4th bolt placement to be awkward being to the left of what I thought was the crux section. The climb is not sustained, the middle section is probably 5.0 or 4th class, while I thought the beginning was maybe 5.6 and near the 4th bolt 5.7 for a couple moves, and then a walk-up to finish. The massive standing area at the anchor would be pretty nice for belaying from the top or teaching how to clean, which was nice. Not a recommended first lead, try the Westbay Wall route on the left for that. Oct 19, 2015
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 PG13
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 PG13
I agree with Andrew - this is not a good first lead. The first bolt is 20 feet off the ground where the first crux is located. If you are a new leader, this would not be a good choice.

There is another crux above bolt 4. My girlfriend had difficulty here and a climber on the route right after us had an anxiety attack at the same spot. Mar 27, 2015
Jeff King  
 
Fun climb! Great slab, thin hand holds the first 20 - 30 ft. and between bolts 3 and 4, and nice jugs the rest of the way.

Rock is a bit soft. A couple decent-sized holds near second bolt broke off with very little pressure while climbing a couple days ago. Heads up, belayers! Aug 6, 2012
Michael Neuder
Colorado Springs, Co
  5.6
Michael Neuder   Colorado Springs, Co
  5.6
Fun traversing pitch. First moves are fun. The climb is very well protected. Worth doing. Apr 17, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Just want to second what Stewart said. Please, people, hang your own slings for top-roping. Last person should clean and rap off. TRing off permanent anchors is very bad style; anchors should not have to be replaced simply because they're getting worn from improper top roping.

Fun climb and real easy; I gotta go with the guidebook on this one: 5.6. Jun 8, 2010
Last summer I replaced the Fixe ring anchors on Pike's Peak with bolt hangers for lowering. Since that time, some people continue to top-rope this route with their rope directly through the bolt anchors. The sawing motion is starting to sharpen the hangers, weakening them and making them potentially dangerous. I didn't replace the used ring anchors with new ones since the cost is almost $30 and having them there will only encourage some folks to continue their unsafe top-rope techniques....

Last evening I added a couple of quick links to the hangers to facilitate rappelling and lowering. Be advised that if you do top-rope with your rope through the links, then your rope will get kinks. Always use your own equipment, including a couple slings with locking carabiners, to create an equalized anchor for top-roping. There is no excuse to top-rope through existing hangers, it's just laziness.

If you want to know why you shouldn't top-rope through bolt anchors and some suggestions on rigging a safe anchor, read my article at my Climbing website at About.com climbing.about.com/od/topro… Apr 29, 2010
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Bold first lead - I wouldn't recommend it to a new leader. Nice route though. Jan 18, 2009
Anna Moore
  5.7
Anna Moore  
  5.7
I really like this route, Getting to the first bolt is the most interesting part but once you get there it gets a lot easier. Between the 3rd and 4th bolt there's a long section but it's got awesome texture on it. The belay platform at the top is large and has a great view. This was also the first route I lead climbed myself. Definitely a good practice route for people who have never lead climbed outside. Jun 25, 2006
As others have stated, the first couple bolts are the hardest portion of the climb. It is an enjoyable climb and the view is great. Thanks to all who put the effort into developing this area...it's great!!! Jul 29, 2005
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
 
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
 
The route has 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Agreed that the start is the trickiest portion of the route.Very nice slab about 15 feet to first bolt. There is 25 foot (or so) between bolts 3 and 4. The climb is a ladder of ledges and jugs at that point, but perhaps something to consider if throwing a new leader on this route. Mar 13, 2005