Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sayers' Wall

Electric Swimming Pool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mad Scientist Variation, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mad Scientist, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mantle of the Leprechaun, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pike's Peak S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, September 2004
Page Views: 4,057 total, 30/month
Shared By: Cory P on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


102 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a great, fun route just to the right of Pikes Peak. There is a long run out to the first bolt, and be prepared to smear, but it is a great climb. The crux comes on a steep slab near the 5th-6th bolt area.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
On Nov. 15 , I ran up this route to find the right anchor bolt missing. Just a heads up for anyone climbing at Red Rocks anytime aoon. Nov 18, 2016
Right anchor bolt is still loose. Nov 6, 2016
Right anchor bolt was loose. Didn't have a tool to fix it. Marked the bottom of the route with some medical tape that said it was loose for follow on climbers. Jul 17, 2016
Cody Baxter  
 
The third bolt was slightly loose a couple weeks ago, it wasn't spinning but was wiggling. May 27, 2016
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
The right hanger and bolt at the anchor are still spinning!

Going straight up the bolts felt in the 5.8 range. Nov 9, 2015
David Tennant
Denver, CO
  5.7+
David Tennant   Denver, CO
  5.7+
I thought this had a good array of movement, and I loved the run-out slab at the start. It flowed well. I would encourage extending at least a few of the bolt placements with a shoulder length runner to reduce rope drag. I also thought the crux was fun, thoughtful, and well-protected. Oct 19, 2015
Right anchor loose - both bolt and hanger spin. Aug 30, 2015
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
5.6
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
5.6
5.8 ??? .... go climb a 5.8 on the 'Silver Cascade Slab' in Cheyenne Canyon, then re-rate this climb.
I remember leading this last year, and the spiciest move was maybe a 5.7-. Sep 30, 2014
Cody E
Colorado Springs, CO
Cody E   Colorado Springs, CO
Right bolt loose. Hand tightened, no tool. Left is a cemented-in eye bolt...seeeemed bomber(?). Little wary rapping down it though. Sep 25, 2014
Mike Smyth
Spartanburg, SC
5.7
Mike Smyth   Spartanburg, SC
5.7
I called Front Range last week and was informed that someone would be out there to dress it up. Apparently they have a contract to maintain the routes. Thank you Front Range for helping to keep us safe out there. Jul 19, 2011
Mike Smyth
Spartanburg, SC
5.7
Mike Smyth   Spartanburg, SC
5.7
Was climbing "The Mad Scientist" 2 days ago and noticed the top anchors seem a bit wiggly and loose. Didn't have a wrench or epoxy with me. Be careful out there. Jun 30, 2011
I agree. This route is no more than 5.7 now, especially if you go right like most folks. The direct line is borderline 5.8. Jun 3, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Definitely not 5.8 if you climb the crack to the right, which is hard to avoid, the holds just take you that way. Fun climb nevertheless! May 3, 2010
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Contrived. The crack to the right of the crux is very nice and easier. Would have been better as a mixed bolts and gear route. Jan 18, 2009
Joey Jimenez
Colorado Springs
Joey Jimenez   Colorado Springs
My wife and I did some laps on this route yesterday and didn't notice any problems with the bolts or hangers. I realize the previous post was nearly a month and half ago - I will assume it has been fixed. Thanks to whoever put in the work. Aug 13, 2008
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I was there two days ago. The nut on the hanger was loose and I tightened it with my hand, but I didn't have a wrench. Jun 20, 2008
Heath, is the bolt itself spinning, or just the hanger?
A spinning bolt requires tightening or replacement, while a spinning hanger is awkward to clip, but represents no decrease in strength. Jun 17, 2008
Heath
Colorado Springs, CO
Heath   Colorado Springs, CO
DO NOT TRUST the 4th bolt on this route. It spins completely around. I did not have any tools, so I was not able to tighten it :(

Heath Jun 17, 2008