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Routes in Sayers' Wall

Electric Swimming Pool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mad Scientist Variation, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mad Scientist, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mantle of the Leprechaun, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pike's Peak S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Joe Corsentino and Brian Shelton, October 2004
Page Views: 3,333 total, 24/month
Shared By: Cory P on Sep 14, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a good route; there is no defined "crux" per se/em> except for a portion about 45-50 feet up, in which you have to be handless for a minute. The downside is the route is relatively new, and not very well cleaned; a lot of the handholds break off at rather unfortunate times.

Location

IT is located near the northern part of Sayer's Wall, about 20 meters away from The Mantle of the Leprechaun. The belayer can stand on the ground just off the trail next to the group of aspen trees.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Least coherent route I've climbed at Red Rocks - the upper half is totally different than the bottom half - almost 4th class with a few fifth class moves thrown in.

The bolts on the lower half zig zag so if you come off you'll take a skidding, pendulum fall.

The easier way to the right is much harder for shorter people, since they have to use slopers to get started. Nov 13, 2015
Michael Neuder
Colorado Springs, Co
 
Michael Neuder   Colorado Springs, Co
 
Nice climb with a cool dike section. Apr 17, 2011
If you go directly up above bolt 2, this route still retains the 5.9 grade. If you chose to traverse right below bolt 3 to the jugs on the right, the grade is 5.7. This is the way most folks are climbing the route now. Apr 29, 2010
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Handholds are solid now. Fun route. Jan 18, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Climbed today with Dave G. and Dan F. All three led. A great climb with a very interesting crux -- edging up a slanted dike with no hands, except for the dike itself (see pic). Well-placed bolts protect the crux. Fun climb, highly recommended. Jan 1, 2009
Steve Knapp
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.9
Steve Knapp   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.9
This is a challenging route for the grade. Slabby start with a few solution pockets to grab. Crux was between 3rd and 4th bolt. The key is an ascending traverse to the left on a ledge system only about an inch wide, then standing up with nearly nothing to hang onto and reaching way up for a hold. The crux can be bypassed with an easier 5.8 section to the right. Aug 26, 2008