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Routes in Sayers' Wall

Electric Swimming Pool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mad Scientist Variation, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mad Scientist, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mantel of the Leprechaun, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pike's Peak S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Tjaden, Marc Aune, and Kathy Carpenter, October 2004.
Page Views: 3,103 total · 21/month
Shared By: Cory P on Sep 14, 2006 with updates from Shane Phillips
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is an easy route for this grade; it could potentially be rated at a 5.9+, but it is a 5.10a/b due to a tricky start and a tough series after a big ledge about halfway up. It is easy to go to the side on the harder portions to make it easier, although this destroys the rating. It is a great warm-up climb.

Location

The route is on the far north side of Sayers' Wall, just to the left of a group of pine trees. It runs over a large ledge running down to the ground, and the belay can set up just off of the trail.

Protection

The route has 5 (6) bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The bolts are pretty new, and very sturdy, but the anchor rings might need some work in the coming years. Although it's an 80 foot climb, the bolts are well placed so that extra pro is not needed.

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Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
  5.9
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
  5.9
My friend led this a few days ago. A really good climb. The initial edge up the first slab is tricky. There are two ways as far as we could tell. To the left or to the right. Both ways are full of temptations to use the trees next to the wall as a kind of pseudo chimney. RESIST IT! It's a lot more satisfying. Other than that pretty straightforward with the crux after the big ledge. There's always the one handhold you need. And plenty of feet to mantle to (as the name suggests). Awesome all around. Well protected. I would say it's a little easier than 5.10a/b. maybe 5.10- or 5.10a Jun 25, 2008
Curt True
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11-
Curt True   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11-
Going direct through the last bolt makes the route a ton more fun. I'd call the move an 11- at least. Also, not PG-13. Just have your belayer spot you on the start. Oct 2, 2009
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.9 PG13
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.9 PG13
Straight up from under the bolt would make this route higher than 5.10- due to the friction. Moving left or right a bit feels like cheating but keeps the route at or below 10-. Staying left of the last 2 bolts could bump the grade to much more difficult than right. May 26, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Decent route but loses a star for all the easy climbing between start and finish. A lot of people calling this PG-13; can't see that. Oct 18, 2010
Michael Neuder
Colorado Springs, Co
 
Michael Neuder   Colorado Springs, Co
 
Interesting route with a slabby smear start. Easy climbing in the middle with some interesting moves at the top. Apr 17, 2011
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
There are 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Jul 29, 2011
John D  
Climbed this route today and it was really fun, but the anchors aren't looking so great. For one the rap rings are pretty worn, though someone added quicklinks to use instead. Also, the left bolt in the anchor had some rock break off near it and now has only like half an inch of rock between it and the fracture. I still rapped off them, but I was gentle and nervous.

Anybody else seen these anchors recently? Anybody know the process necessary to get permission to replace them? May 27, 2013
Did this route today...that left bolt at the anchor looks worse than before. There is no longer any rock supporting the top part of the hanger. The top of the hanger is just touching air now. I would have posted a picture of it, but I left my phone down in my bag. It's not so bad that you can see the bolt when looking down on it from above...the top of the bolt is still covered by rock, but I'm wondering how much weight it would really hold. Not a bolt expert, so I'm not sure how deep the bolts go into the rock...maybe it isn't as bad as I think, but I wanted to post this so someone who was more experienced than me could take a look at it.

On another note, if anyone is considering replacing it (with the proper approval), let me know as I would love to learn how that stuff is done. Jul 19, 2014
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8 PG13
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8 PG13
Agree with the comments that its very easy to avoid the difficulties by climbing to the left or right of the line directly along the bolts - I would give it 5.6/5.7.

I climbed directly up the bolts and called it 5.8. This route is several grades easier than Tava or Route to the Left of Thin Line. Even though some of the smears were thin, there is at least one decent handhold and even better ones as you move up. However, my 5 ft. girlfriend had trouble following my lead. Perhaps the rating is height-dependent.

I understand the PG-13 rating. The first bolt is 20 feet off the ground, the second bolt is about 20 feet from the first, so if you fall you will come close to hitting the ground. Although it is relatively easy, if a hold breaks you could take a scary ride - there is ample loose rock on this climb!

Also, if you slip before clipping the second bolt on the headwall, you will hit the ledge at the base of the headwall.

There are loose rocks on the ledges and in the cracks, so be careful not to knock any on your belayer. When I pulled my rope after rappeling, it brought down a 3" diameter rock. Nov 24, 2015
David Tennant
Denver, CO
  5.9 PG13
David Tennant   Denver, CO
  5.9 PG13
I'd say that the main slab move down low was definitely the crux which was a thin 5.9 move. The rest of the route is probably 5.8 with a fun move to the anchors. This would receive a lot more stars if it wasn't for the ledge, which interrupts good climbing, and then creates a ledge fall opportunity while clipping the 4th bolt. I found this very well bolted, even with the run out to the first and second bolts. Each had a very logical clipping stance and preceded more difficult moves. Overall very cool holds with the two diagonal iron bands and the cool pockets around the 4th bolt. Mar 14, 2016
Shane Phillips
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9-
Shane Phillips   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9-
Good climb for noobies, since they can "cheat" begin their climb on the left side in order to get started on the line of pockets above the shelf, traverse the pockets, and use the flake on the right side to get them through the second crux (5.6-5.7), the first being the first 15ft of the climb. The fixed ring anchors at the top of this had moderate wear. Rebolt the anchors, maybe? Good climb for beginning leaders; simple, solid holds at clips. Overall, this has good flexibility when it comes to difficulty. It can range from 5.6-5.9 depending how hard you want to make it on yourself. Sep 9, 2018

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