Type: Sport, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Raoul Rossiter, 2000
Page Views: 1,045 total · 6/month
Shared By: brent pohlmann on Aug 4, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Start from the anchor atop the first pitch of Mystic Mile. Traverse right and down to a huge, left-facing dihedral. Clip the first bolt, and power up and right via an undercling/lieback. Finish at an anchor shared with Eight Miles High.

I don't claim to world class climber, but compared to the other 10a's at Sleeping Beauty, all of which I had success on, this route seems way harder. My partner regularly climbs hard 11 and had to hang on this thing...I got completely shut down. Has anyone else felt this way? And is there a manufactured hold just underneath the horizontal crack? Has anyone done this using the left-facing dihedral instead the horizontal crack?

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos