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Routes in Main Wall

Aerial Boundaries S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Arcanum T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Dawn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eight Miles High S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Deception T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kama Sutra T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lightspeed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
MLK T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Bender S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mystic Mile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prince Charmer T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tree of Life, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Wings of Desire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kelly Baldwin and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 152 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 6, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Follow the trail up to the first ledge. Go left and then up to the far left side of cliff. Start in the obvious corner just left of Aerial Boundaries. Stem up the short corner over a small roof. Tend left and up to the first bolt. Make a cool move and clip the second bolt. Reach a ledge and follow the crack up to a steep slab. Clip the third bolt and make a dicey move to gain the slab. Climb on good hold up past two more bolt and reach the anchor on a large ledge. This route is still a little dirty but should clean-up with more ascents. Good route for aspiring 5.9 leader.

Protection

A small selection of cams to a number two Friend and seven quickdraws with get you to a two-bolt belay. A 60 meter rope barely make it back to ledge. Be careful when lowering.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Has cleaned up quite a bit. The gear is reasonable. A light rack to 3". 1st and 3rd bolts would be for want of longer slings. Anchors at the top are 5' too high and thus across a long edge. Belay up top and rap, lowering is hard on the ropes. A 60m should get you down OK. Jul 28, 2016
D. Shaw
  5.10a/b PG13
D. Shaw  
  5.10a/b PG13
Worth doing. Two crux moves on it are harder than 5.9, the start/corner is mossy and has lichen, but indeed can be avoided on right. The way I did it, after the crack, join the bolts on the route to the right, but is quite a hard move onto the face. Maybe not if you are very tall. Jun 30, 2011
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
I enjoyed this climb, and it climbed better than I expected. Yes, the bottom 1/4 is dirty, but not enough to bother me. I was, not having read the beta, expecting a sport climb having climbed past the first and second bolts when doing the girdle a couple of years ago, but it climbs more like a trad climb. Fun stemming with trad gear to start (you can bypass that out right on the arete). A couple of interesting moves past two bolts over a bulge to access the arete. An easy trad hand crack (bring a red or gold Camalot), and then a puzzling move at another bolt to gain the slab. After a few minutes here, I went straight right then up, and it was easy, 5.9 at the most. Easy slab to the top. It seems like it joins the last couple of bolts of Aerials Boundaries. Is that true? Or did I miss other bolts further left? Aug 21, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Some good moves past the first two bolts, but the climb is so dirty with moss, lichen and grunge that it's really not worth doing. The dicey move past the third bolt is much harder than 9+; perhaps a hold broke? Seemed more like 10c to me. If you're in the area, do Aerial Boundaries, Black Rain, and Jungle of Stone; don't bother with Prince Charmer. Jul 17, 2004