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Routes in Main Wall

Aerial Boundaries S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Arcanum T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Dawn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eight Miles High S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Deception T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kama Sutra T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lightspeed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
MLK T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Bender S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mystic Mile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prince Charmer T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tree of Life, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Wings of Desire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 7,514 ft
GPS: 39.997, -105.417 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,342 total · 72/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk on the Wide Side
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kama Sutra
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Eight Miles High
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystic Mile
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walk on the Wide Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Kama Sutra 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Eight Miles High 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Mystic Mile 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

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