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Routes in Main Wall

Aerial Boundaries S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Arcanum T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Dawn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eight Miles High S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Deception T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kama Sutra T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lightspeed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
MLK T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Bender S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mystic Mile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prince Charmer T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tree of Life, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Wings of Desire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Dan Hare. FFA Vaino Kodas and BD
Page Views: 201 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 10, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start on the very right side of the upper ledge. Climb up a nice slab leading into a steep corner. Good holds and protection will get you to the crux move right before the anchor. Good route on good stone.

Protection

Nine bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Good job to Vaino and Bob. Tony is correct, though. When I first led this climb with Serena Benson in 1999, the wall was still streaked with rock powder from my old Bosch hammer drill. Dirt and lichen yet obscured critical holds. I couldn't quite pull the final mantle and so responsibly graded the route 12a A0.
I never went back until recent times. The route has cleaned up very well over the past 7 years and is a real beauty of a face climb. I find the final moves to be quite demanding, and I still grade the route 12a.

I experienced the same situation on the FA of Aerial Boundaries with Moe Hershof and Leah Macaluso, 1998. This is another exceptional face climb and a very difficult one to do all free. Though the crux is really a single move, it is not easily passed. Most folks clip the bolt and yard off the quickdraw. Kudos to Bob D. for getting it right. Sep 18, 2006
I agree w/ Tony about the rating. The headwall is quality climbing, but it is considerably easier than the direct start of Immaculate Deception (not to mention the crux of MLK). Call it 11c, and it's still pretty easy in the grade. Sep 14, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Good rock and good route. The bolts through the crux are darn close together, but they were thoughtfully placed. The route still has a few moves left in it after the crux, too. I think it may have been over graded though- perhaps the horizontal crack and sidepulls through the crux have cleaned up. Regardless, 5.11c or 5.11d seems more appropriate. Aug 5, 2006
BL
 
BL  
 
Very nice, sustained at the top.

BobL Aug 16, 2004