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Routes in Main Wall

Aerial Boundaries S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Arcanum T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Dawn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eight Miles High S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Deception T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kama Sutra T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lightspeed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
MLK T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Bender S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mystic Mile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prince Charmer T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tree of Life, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Wings of Desire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Morris "Moe" Hershoff, Leah Macaluso, 1998. FFA: Bob D'Antonio, 1999.
Page Views: 183 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 25, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route follows a rounded arete down and right of Black Rain. A fun route that goes free at 5.12a/b, or can be done with one point of aid at 5.10a A0.

Follow the approach described in Black Rain. Go 40' up the ramp right of Black Rain, then climb down to a small exposed ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Belay from here. Climb up past three bolts to a small roof (10a). Angle up right and clip the fourth bolt over the roof. Make a difficult move (12a/b) or yard on the quickdraw (A0) and step left to surmount the roof. Continue up the blunt arete past six more bolts to a good ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Belay from here. The climbing route is 120' long.

Rappel 105' with two ropes or one 70m rope back to the ramp above the start. It may be possible to rappel with one 60m rope but you will be at the very ends of the rope.

Two stars for good rock, fun moves, and a wild move over the roof.

Protection

10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Really nice route. The 4th clip over the lip is not that easy to make. Consider putting a draw on that bolt and perhaps a long sling - one can yard on the draw and then step in the sling to reach the jug hold above. Without the long sling you have to make a 10 slab move to reach the jug.

I really didn't feel much at all to grab onto above the lip to try the route free. I wonder if anything has broken off in the last 9 years? Sep 28, 2008
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
The information in Rossiter's guidebook is incorrect; Moe Hershoff may have toproped the line free, but he did not lead it, according to Moe himself. The first free lead of the route was by Bob D'Antonio in 1999. Oct 8, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide lists Moe Hershoff as the "redpoint" in 1998. Is that incorrect? Should the rating be changed to be the free rating, since it has been listed as such since the 1999 guidebook. Sep 20, 2007
Scott Miller
Denver, CO
  5.10a A0
Scott Miller   Denver, CO
  5.10a A0
Yeah, but I had to pull real hard on that draw. Jun 18, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
The 10a layback up a ramp past the 3rd bolt leaves you in a tenuous position to make the 4th clip. My partner, who is 5'5", didn't think she could reach the clip if she were leading. The next move is the 12a/b crux (A0 if you yard on the draw). Shorter climbers be forewarned.

There's a great belay ledge at the top of the climb; bring your partner up and enjoy the view before you rappel back down. Aug 17, 2005