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Aerial Boundaries S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Arcanum T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Dawn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eight Miles High S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Deception T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kama Sutra T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lightspeed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
MLK T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Bender S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mystic Mile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prince Charmer T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tree of Life, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Wings of Desire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, Bersto, 1998
Page Views: 1,006 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 27, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Like the other trad crack routes at Sleeping Beauty, this is a little ugly and a little dirty and often a little wet. If not for that, this and the other crack routes would be 2 stars.

Start: as you traverse right on Ledge 2, there is a gap that you can pass either by squeezing behind a tree or by lowering down and then climbing back up. Just beyond this are the bolted climbs Wings of Desire and MLK and then the wide crack of Walk on the Wide Side.

P1: 5.9 sustained at the 5.8/5.9 level. Climb the hand crack left of the wide crack (MLK also climbs this crack) to the first bolt on MLK. Step right into the wide crack (#4 Friend). Move up into the slot and climb it with fun stemming with small gear (green/yellow/red Aliens). Optional belay above the slot. You could clip a bolt up and left on MLK for the belay. Continue up a pleasant hand crack with feet mostly on big slopers. The crack widens as it approaches an overhang with a spike of rock sticking out. Use a #3 Camalot. Stem up and grab the spike. It's a bit spooky, but seems to be solid. You can get a good nut above the spike. Stem up higher then step left and up. The MLK anchor can be seen to your left. Continue up a lower angle left facing corner with a few more jams to a good ledge on the right and the anchor, 115'.

P1 variation: the wide crack right of the regular start can be climbed at about 10a if you use the many knobs on its left side. It would be much harder if you used only crack technique. You'll want a #5 Camalot if you lead this.

P2: 5.7, sport. Angle right from the anchor to a "rib" and the first bolt. Continue up on pleasant climbing to the anchor. Since this anchor has no rings, continue straight right then up a bit to the anchor on Immaculate Deception.

Per Dan Raymond: the P2 anchor now has quicklinks.

Protection

P1 is trad: a single set small cams (green Alien or smaller), doubles in hand size to #3.5 Friend/#3 Camalot, #4 Friend or #3.5 Camalot; one set nuts; 15+ draws; and some long slings. The P1 anchor is 2 bolts with rings. P2 is sport, 5.7, 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with NO rings. To rap, traverse right and up a bit to the Immaculate Deception anchor. The jams are comfy, so no tape or crack gloves are necessary.

Per Dan Raymond: the P2 anchor now has quicklinks.

Photos

Dan Raymond
Longmont, CO
Dan Raymond   Longmont, CO
Quicklinks are currently installed at the anchor above the 2nd pitch, so it is no longer necessary to use the Immaculate Deception anchor to rappel. Sep 11, 2017
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
A good long pitch with sustained and interesting moves. Fun jams up the initial hand crack, enjoyable stemming up the slot, followed by more crack climbing with a wild move past a protruding spike. Some dirty rock and a few minor wet spots, but fun moves throughout. Ivan's gear beta is right on.

The second pitch is an easy but enjoyable slab. As Ivan mentions, there are no rap rings on the top anchor, so don't belay here but continue on to the Immaculate Deception anchor.This anchor is hard to see; don't go too far right before heading up. I traversed too far right and wound up at the Crack of Dawn anchor instead. Aug 30, 2004